I need to replace the circuit breaker serving my clothes dryer (240V). The identification info on the breaker is worn off, but all the other breakers are Bryant type BR, so I assume this one is also. It appears to actually be two identical breakers, but the on/off switches are held together with a metal cover strip. The cover strip has a window that shows that one of the breakers is 30 amp. The on/off switch handles are green.
I have had to replace another breaker before, and I know they pop out from the breaker box. The box has a blade that the breaker fits onto. For some reason, I can't seem to get this twin breaker out of the box.
Is there some trick to getting this type of breaker out of the box? Or is it just hard to get out?
What is the reason for the replacement? It is possible that the breaker connection to the bus bar has been arcing and has welded itself to the bus bar. In which case, if there is no other available spaces left in the panel for a breaker to be added, a new panel is in your future.
Donnie-
The breaker was tripped this morning immediately after my wife started the dryer (which has never been tripped before). When I went down to look at things a few minutes later, the breaker was in a sort of halfway position between on and off. I unplugged the dryer and tried to reset the breaker, but the switch had a sort of weak action to it, and it would not stay in either a full off or on position.
I looked at the dryer and noticed a burning odor coming from it (definitely NOT coming from the breaker). I'm in the process of diagnosing the dryer problem. But I figure I better replace the breaker too while I'm at it.
I have those type BR's in my Siemens box, I just when to Lowes and bought a new 2-pole 30amp breaker for my air compressor and the replacement for it was a Cutler Hammer and it cost $7.81. Siemens type QT, QP and QPH work too but you wont find them anymore.
Since the breaker went bad you may want to have your wire to your dryer checked out. but my guess is moisture is the culprit.
If you have any trouble finding the breaker at Lowes ask the guy that works the electrical dept. They know a whole bunch about replacing discontinued stuff.
Try unplugging the dryer and see if the breaker will reset. Move it to full off, and then to full on. It sounds as though the dryer is the problem and not the breaker.
Donnie-
I had already disconnected the dryer when I tried to reset the breaker. But I tried again, and now the breaker seems to have reset, but I think I'll hit Lowe's for a replacement just in case.
Still trying to isolate the problem with the dryer.
Thanks for the help!!
thanx for all the info in this thread!!!
I found it after I posted a similar one...except apparently I have more than 1 problem!
I have fixed the dryer problems, as far as I can tell...BUT the breaker is another story!
NO ONE EXPLAINED THE HOW part of removing the BRYANT style breaker...that one is stumping me!
HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN A BREAKER IS BAD?...or weak as some others have said???
Really appreciate any advice.
Thanx,
Sam
The Answer
Turn off Main, And PULL LIKE HELL
From the center opposite the end where the wire is connected!!!
BTW any number of breakers replace the Bryant Murray, GE, Homeline, any of the Standard interchangables
If tripped to many times the Springs in the breaker lose some of thier tension!!! So thats what is meant by loose!!! I wouldn't replace the breaker if it holds after repairing the Dryer !!! Unless it keeps on Nuisance tripping!!!!
thanx...
Nuisance~~~In deed!!!!
I pulled it and replaced it...cause it started popping off even when the dryer was unplugged!!!
I thought only one outlet on that circuit...but after looking behind the insulation a previous owner tapped into it and added another outlet...had a sump pump hooked up to it...So tomorrow I am going to investigate that possible problem area.
Thanx again!
Sam
A sump pump on a 30 amp breaker??? That doesn't sound right. Check the sump pump rating and install a properly sized circuit.
Be a good idea to remove the sump pump from that Circuit and replace it with a 20 Ampere #12 Wire Circuit with a GFCI receptacle.. If the GFCI trips when the pump is plugged in time to replace the pump or [pump motor, you prolly have a ground fault (Neutral shorted to ground in motor)
BE SAFE !!!! Death by eloctrocution is not pleasant
Wow...what do they say~~~when it rains it pours!!!...LOL!
Thanx to all of you for you info...you all were right (kinda)...
1. breaker popping but varying symptoms...
2. upon investigation, found probs with heating element mounts that led to a short in the elementled to a shorted/melted wire..
3. Apparently a weakened breaker...NEW BREAKER installed...
***BAM!!!
4. Breaker kicking off before I even had the DRYER pluged in????
5.(20 yo house we bought)...(meaning lots of lil (probably illegal, definately stupid mods done by previous inhabitants)...
DANG if I don't find another circuit tapped into the dryer outlet when I remove the cover...SEEMS someone wanted to power the storage shed some years back.
6. Now back-tracking...We had severe damage from Hurricane Isabel...and just finished the repairs...THE DAY BEFORE THE BIG FREEZE AND SNOW STORM (that we just defrosted from)...
We had 8 trees removed and 9 stumps ground down @1.5' below the surface...
Me thinks that probably the stump grinder came close enough to that mistery cable run...close enough to introduce moisture but not actually cut the line...after a week of thawing and soggy ground it got to it enough to cause a ground fault!
So, I disconnected that link, reset the breaker, pluged in the dryer and am finishing the last load of laundry as I type...
Thanx again!!!
Sam
Tags: bryant, circuit, breaker, replacement, sump pump, reset breaker, close enough, coming from, cover strip, dryer problem, from breaker
