tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62999777399263177862024-03-13T14:52:17.957-07:00Mammogram ScreeningAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comBlogger3921125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-60207567950288441962014-03-12T20:45:00.009-07:002014-03-12T22:01:45.741-07:00Whole House Surge Protector Breaker Box Question<br><br />Installing a Leviton 51110 whole house surge protector from Home Depot. Four leads - 2 black, a green and a white. Blacks go to two adjacent 20 amp breakers, white goes to the neutral bus, green to the ground bus.<br />Since I don't currently have two adjacent 20 amp breakers, I need to install two more, but my concern is does it matter where the breakers for the protector are located in relation to the others? Should they be physically on top of the others - i.e. closest to the main lines coming in so a surge hits it before it hits the other lines or does it not work that way? If they're supposed to be physically at the top of the breakers, I'd have to do a bunch of rearranging, since there isn't enough slack in the leads going to the leads to simply move them all down two spaces.<br />Anyone have experience with this particular unit and how well it works?<br />Thanks!<br /> <br />Ideally they should be as close to the main circuit breaker as possible. I don't know if there would be a serious problem locating them a bit down the line from the main.<br /> <br />.<br />The instructions only say to locate the device as close as possible to the panel itself.<br />There is no criteria as to where in the panel the breakers need to be.<br />Use the shortest path......lengthening the wires should be avoided.<br />Verify you have 240 volts across the 2 breakers to ensure they are on separate feeds.<br />.<br /> <br />Follow the instructions, but I would also advise placing the breakers as close to the main breaker as possible. Some manufacturers state this clearly in their instructions and some don't.<br /> <br />does it matter where the breakers for the protector are located in relation to the others? Should they be physically on top of the others - i.e. closest to the main lines coming in so a surge hits it before it hits the other lines or does it not work that way?<br />I've installed them everywhere and anywhere in the panel, including in the open spaces at the bottom, as far from the feeders as you can get. They've all worked as expected.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XFeaxRzPgtA" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XFeaxRzPgtA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: whole, house, surge, protector, breaker, adjacent breakers, before hits, before hits other, before hits other lines, before hits other lines does, breaker possible, breakers needAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-78102759010281919412014-03-12T20:45:00.008-07:002014-03-12T21:59:23.550-07:00tecumseh-hmsk80-surging<br><br />When I started up my snow blower yesterday to test after new friction disk and belts, it started surging fairly dramatically.<br />At a rate of about once per second, it accelerates to full throttle, then cycles back almost to idle. I took the cover off and you can see the governor mechanism moving back and forth.<br />Putting on a little choke moderated it a little but didn't sop it. What trouble shooting steps should I take? It didn't do this at the end of least season, when I drained the tank and carb.<br />I took the bolt and float bowl off. The bowl was clean, the bolt didn't look bad but I washed it a while in carb cleaner. Also addes some Seafoam to the gas (which is fresh).<br />It now runs steadily at full rpm but still pulses at part throttle? The drops are rainwater, not fuel.<br /> <br />Remove the brass bowl screw from the carb and clean out the tiny holes in it. There should be 3. 2 oppose each other near the head, one runs straight down the center, and the 3rd is a tiny one that usually causes your problem located in an unthreaded section of the screw.<br /> <br />It is starving for fuel or the other thing that can cause it is an improper setting of the governor. Pretty well covers it.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by cheese<br />Remove the brass bowl screw from the carb and clean out the tiny holes in it. There should be 3. 2 oppose each other near the head, one runs straight down the center, and the 3rd is a tiny one that usually causes your problem located in an unthreaded section of the screw.<br />Thanks! I chased the holes with a needle and will give it a try.<br /> <br />Hmmm, cleaned holes, runs pretty well at full throttle but still surging at partial throttle.....<br /> <br />If i read the post correctly, it sounds as if you cleaned the main jet but nothing else. You need to remove the carburetor and soak it in your carb cleaner. Be sure to remove all jets (two) and rubber parts before soaking, paying particular attention to the low speed fuel jet.<br /> <br />OK, got a #30 Torx and got the manifold and carb off. Removed the float and choke linkage.<br />FWIW the # on the casting is 5002G7G. Is that any reference to part #?<br /> <br />As Winter is here I bought a new carb ($53) and a rebuild kit for the old one.<br />Apparently on this carb there are two O rings that can go bad and create thsi problem. The rebuild kit includes them.<br /> <br />Garandman<br />Not to be a nit picker but one thing you should do is position the float bowl on the carb in the right spot. If you look at your picture,the bowl is in the wrong position. The indent or high spot of the float bowl is facing the choke end of the carb, it should always be facing the fuel inlet. Reason being is that you will now have the full swing of the float in the bowl allowing the most fuel that is needed. It's a common mistake because the bowl can be put on in any postion but only one position to work effectively.<br />snoman<br /> <br />Great point, I'll check it on the new carb as well.<br /> <br />Based on your carburetor ID number (5002***), you should have gotten Tecumseh part number 640349 as a replacement carb. The 2 o-rings that can go bad and do are on the emulsion tube. Note that it is very common on these, fixed jet, carbs that they will hunt (surge) until the carburetor body is up to a sufficient temperature - usually about 4-5 minutes of run time.<br /> <br />Yes, that's what I got, works fine. Haven't torn in to the old one yet.<br /> <br />Hi there- first time posting.<br />First, thank you all for the wealth of information posted here. I have an older MTD with an 8hp hmsk80 that surged like crazy. It drove both myself and the neighbors nuts. I cleaned the bowl screw (there was brown varnish all over everything) and now it runs great! Thank you. Saved me from having to pay for a tune up.<br />One question though, why do these engines not have an air cleaner? I understand that there is not as much dust around as with the use of a mower, but isn't this just more invitation for wear? Is there a way to retrofit a cleaner? Am I just being paranoid?<br />Scooter<br /> <br />Is this what you mean by surging?<br />http://www.youtube.com/v/fY87ijdfhOsrel=1<br />Mine will surge up-n-down. Choking it helps a little, but not at high RPMs. This thing has maybe 2 hours on it at the most. This is my 3rd season with it. The first season it was fine. The second season it started doing what you see in the video. I took the carb apart, blew it out with compressed air and soaked it in a coffee can of carb cleaner overnight. I also ran some carb cleaner additive through it by adding it to the fuel. Still surges.<br />If new carbs are only $50 I may go that route. It's a Techumseh Snow King 8 HP. The first season I let the gas sit in it (like I did every year for 15 years with my Craftsman w/ a BS engine). Last year I put Stabil in the fuel as well as some carb cleaner.<br />I think I'll take it apart and look at the orifices described above. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.<br /> <br />Scooter, snowblowers don't have or need air filters. No need to worry about them.<br />Jimmy, your carb is still the problem. I'd bet the tiny hole near the end of the bowl screw is clogged. You might not even see it if it's clogged because it's so small.<br /> <br />Wow, always figured an aircleaner was a must. Guess there is not that much dust to worry about on a snowy day.<br />Cleaning out that hole took care of the surging on mine, but I do have a new problem. It runs fine when idling or running fast with no load, but when I put a load on it (run it through snow), it bogs down and puffs some black smoke. Seems like it is over rich. I turned the screw on the bottom of the carb in by small increments and it seems to help a little. Am I working in the right direction or is this a float adjustment?<br />Scooter<br /> <br />I put the carb off of my dad's HKS80 on my machine and it worked flawlessly. My dad's had eaten a belt so it was out of commission anyway.<br />While picking up parts for his machine, dad talked to the local small engine guy. He said that once the seals disintegrate like mine did you have to rebuild it and do it correctly. His advice was that the cost of the kit (which was nationally back-ordered with no ETA) plus the time to do it right wasn't worth it. He suggested a new carb and gave my dad the P/N.<br />Online, I found the original carb and the carb associated with the part number we got. The original carb is $50, the other is $70. Trusting the advice of the small engine guy I bought $70 unit. Turns out the difference is whether you get an adjustable ($70) or non-adjustable ($50) carb. I now have a needle valve in that screw at the bottom of the float bowl as well as some other adjustments. I think I'd have preferred the 'fool proof', non-adjustable carb for $50 but maybe these adjustments will prove useful in the future. Just more stuff to goof up, IMO.<br />I didn't put the new carb on yet - been busy with other stuff. Hopefully it'll run right out of the box.<br />Jim<br /> <br />Scooter, you are working in the right direction just a bit off. You need to richen the adjustment, not lean it. The black smoke is a rich issue but what is happening is that because the carburetor is starving for fuel, during load operation, the governor opens up the throttle well past normal to compensate for need. If you richen the main jet (bottom of fuel bowl) you will be already providing the needed extra fuel and there will be a smooth transition between no-load and load operation.<br />Jim, the adjustable jet carb will be quite useful in the future and they are much less likely to aquire a governor hunt (surge). Post back with your engine's ID numbers including the model (HMSK80), specification (155 something) and serial number (4 digits and a letter) as well as your dad's engine ID numbers. What was the local small engine guy's part numbers for the repair kit as well as that of the replacement carburetor as well as his estimated cost to recondition your carburetor? I've yet to have a repair kit backordered to me this year and I've ordered hundreds of various Tecumseh kits this season. I'm just curious because we rarely ever replace a carburetor at my shop and the cost to recondition one is generally half the cost of a new carb. And, furthermore, I think my carburetor rebuilds are better performing than a new, out of the box, carb. The proper carburetor bath cleaner is, by far, the key to getting a good performing carburetor, post reconditioning.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by puey61<br />Post back with your engine's ID numbers including the model (HMSK80), specification (155 something) and serial number (4 digits and a letter) as well as your dad's engine ID numbers. What was the local small engine guy's part numbers for the repair kit as well as that of the replacement carburetor as well as his estimated cost to recondition your carburetor?<br />I don't have my dad's info, but here's mine:<br />LH318SA<br />156553H<br />The local guy wanted $15 for the rebuild kit (if he were able to get it) and $80 for the carb. I found the carb online for $70. I don't know how much he wanted to rebuild it - I was going to do it myself.<br />The carb he recommended is 632334A (this is the one I got) and the rebuild kit was 632760A.<br />I haven't installed the new carb yet. It's a 15-minute job but I've been bogged down in other stuff. My lofty goal today is to unearth the snowblower from the debris in the garage and slap that carb on it.<br />Thanks,<br />Jim<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/QE8Gb46kaXQ" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/QE8Gb46kaXQ" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: tecumseh, hmsk80, surging, carb cleaner, float bowl, bowl screw, engine numbers, small engine, your engine, your engine numbersAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-19928866262742452642014-03-12T20:45:00.007-07:002014-03-12T21:59:12.025-07:00replacing-supply-air-plenum-box<br><br />I need to replace the supply air plenum (vertically mounted) that connects the air handler to the main supply duct. The existing one is 30 years old and the flexible boot has deteriorated. When shopping for a replacement duct, do I look for one (or have one made) that is exactly the same dimensions as the outlet on the air handler or slightly larger so that it fits around the opening? The drawings indicate an opening on the top of the air handler of 17 1/2 by 11. Also, do they still make this type of plenum with flexible boot or is everything rigid these days? I like the idea of the flexible boot because it will be easy to install because I won't have to mess with the air handler or surrounding ductwork to get it in place. If rigid is my only option, how would I go about installing it? Size it slightly shorter then wrap something around it to seal the gap?<br /> <br />If only the flexible joint has deteriorated it would be foolish to replace the entire plenum. Most plenums are field made and are custom to the installation. Sheet metal work is expensive so anything that you can DIY is money in your pocket.<br />Here is a site that sells flexible joint material by the foot. Most other sites require you to purchase a 100 foot roll. You might find the material locally at a good sheet metal shop or a place that installs furnaces.<br />ComfortGurus.com: DuroDyne MBX4-100 - Black Excelon® Flexible Duct Connector (1 ft.)<br />(I have no connection to Comfort Gurus and have never purchased from them. Caveat emptor.)<br /> <br />I can likely reuse the existing plenum, but am preparing myself for the possibility that I'll have to replace it. I'm trying to determine the best way to level my air handler and it looks like I may have to disconnect the supply plenum in order to maneuver it. At least that will make it easier, I think. I may be able to wedge something underneath between the return box that it is sitting on and the bottom of the handler. I gave it a good push/tug the other evening though and it didn't budge much, presumably because of either the supply plenum or the return duct connected to the return box. Doesn't look like the air handler is secured to the return box--I believe it is simply resting on top. Is this typical? I'll post a couple pictures later this evening.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/vEDlgnsTdNc" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/vEDlgnsTdNc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: supply, plenum, flexible boot, flexible joint, supply plenumAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-59160070309779730912014-03-12T20:45:00.006-07:002014-03-12T22:00:53.909-07:00Plz Explain To Me Operate The Dials On My Water Softener (Pictures Incl )<br><br />Hi all-<br />I have a water softener that came with my house in 2002. It was gong through about 4, 40lb. bags of salt (at least) per month, and a buddy of mine suggested that it was regenerating too much. So I played with the dials and of course I made the problem worse! Now it doesn't regenerate at all.<br />I've tried looking for the instruction manual- can't find one. I can't find a brand name, either, on the softener in order to locate instructions online.<br />Here are the pictures of the timer dials on my water softener:<br />overview of unit<br />close up of left dial<br />close up of right dial<br />Could someone please explain to me how I need to position them for optimum water softener operation? I hoping this system is a pretty standard system and someone on this forum is familiar with it!<br />Thanks for your time,<br />ualdriver<br /> <br />Thanks for the pics... much easier than mind reading...<br />You have an industry standard water softener (good thing) with a tried and true Fleck 5600 Econominder control valve (good thing).<br />The settings are based on:<br />the amount of resin in the big cylindrical tank<br />your water conditions<br />water usage (# of people in the house)<br />Without that info we're blind.<br />Look on the softener for a sticker showing a model number. Measure the height of the cylinder from it's top surface down to the top of the black collar at the bottom. Measure the diameter of the cylinder.<br />If you're on a water system the city can give you a general report of the water conditions. Best to have your water tested.<br />Ever done any routine maintenance on your softener, yes - no?<br />How often was the softener regenerating?<br />Thank your buddy and never listen to him about water treatment again.<br />As for you, don't EVER change the settings on anything without recording where you started ESPECIALLY since you have a digital camera.<br />Here's is the service manual for your Fleck 5600 Econominder... click here for service manual in PDF form<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />Thanks for the pics... much easier than mind reading...<br />You have an industry standard water softener (good thing) with a tried and true Fleck 5600 Econominder control valve (good thing).<br />The settings are based on:<br />the amount of resin in the big cylindrical tank<br />your water conditions<br />water usage (# of people in the house)<br />Without that info we're blind.<br />Look on the softener for a sticker showing a model number. Measure the height of the cylinder from it's top surface down to the top of the black collar at the bottom. Measure the diameter of the cylinder.<br />If you're on a water system the city can give you a general report of the water conditions. Best to have your water tested.<br />Ever done any routine maintenance on your softener, yes - no?<br />How often was the softener regenerating?<br />Thank your buddy and never listen to him about water treatment again.<br />As for you, don't EVER change the settings on anything without recording where you started ESPECIALLY since you have a digital camera.<br />Here's is the service manual for your Fleck 5600 Econominder... click here for service manual in PDF form<br />Thanks Just a Lurker!!<br />Here is all the information:<br />1) Friend chastised for making me touch things I wasn't supposed to<br />2) There was no sticker on the tank anywhere that I could find. The dimensions of the cylinder are 44.5 inches high, 10 inches diameter.<br />3) My town's water quality report is here. We have hard water- that's all I know<br />4) I don't know how much resin is in the big cylindrical tank. If you can tell me check it I will.<br />5) There are 2 adults and 2 small children in the house. I'm not sure how much detail you need for water usage but here's some info on the heavy usage stuff....... One bath for the kids per day, two fifteen minute showers for the adults per day. The standard sized dishwasher runs about once every 1.5 days. The top loading clothes washer probably does one load every 1.5 days on average.<br />6) I haven't done any routine maintenance to the water softener since I moved into the house other than filling the storage tank with salt. Does that make me a bad person?<br />7) I use the blue 40lb. Morton salt bags from Home Depot that have crystals about the size of a pea with jagged edges.<br />8) The softener was regenerating every night.<br />I think that is everything you asked for!<br /> <br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />1) Friend chastised for making me touch things I wasn't supposed to<br />Smackdown approved and noted<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />2) There was no sticker on the tank anywhere that I could find. The dimensions of the cylinder are 44.5 inches high, 10 inches diameter.<br />10x44 is an odd size<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />3) My town's water quality report is here. We have hard water- that's all I know<br />insufficient data... no hardness levels and a lot of iron<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />4) I don't know how much resin is in the big cylindrical tank. If you can tell me check it I will.<br />If it was a common size we could look up the resin volume<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />5) There are 2 adults and 2 small children in the house. I'm not sure how much detail you need for water usage but here's some info on the heavy usage stuff....... One bath for the kids per day, two fifteen minute showers for the adults per day. The standard sized dishwasher runs about once every 1.5 days. The top loading clothes washer probably does one load every 1.5 days on average.<br />That's what we need to know<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />6) I haven't done any routine maintenance to the water softener since I moved into the house other than filling the storage tank with salt. Does that make me a bad person?<br />Not a bad person, just a homeowner<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />7) I use the blue 40lb. Morton salt bags from Home Depot that have crystals about the size of a pea with jagged edges.<br />OK<br />Originally Posted by ualdriver<br />8) The softener was regenerating every night.<br />FAR too often. Either something is very wrong or the softener is way too small. A correctly sized softener should be regenerating every 7 days or so and with high iron content in the water every three to four days.<br />Here's what I suggest... hit the Yellow Pages and look under water treatment for independent water treatment companies. They will be the ads that don't have a brand name.<br />Since you have a Fleck 5600 Econominder based softener there's always someone almost everywhere that services them.<br />Get them to come out, test your water, and give you an estimate to repair an reset your softener. Be prepared to spend a few bucks because I suspect that the resin is fouled and may need to be replaced.<br />If your softener proves too small, and I suspect it is, it will be more cost effective to replace it.<br />Post what they tell you and the exact hardware and size they recommend and we'll give your our thoughts.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />Get them to come out, test your water, and give you an estimate to repair an reset your softener. Be prepared to spend a few bucks because I suspect that the resin is fouled and may need to be replaced.<br />If your softener proves too small, and I suspect it is, it will be more cost effective to replace it.<br />Post what they tell you and the exact hardware and size they recommend and we'll give your our thoughts.<br />OK, well there's a sticker on the softener for a local company which seems to be a non brand name. I'll give them a call, have them come out, and post what they say.<br />Concerning your comment about my water softener possibly being too small.......how big a softener unit might they be looking to install? And how much does it cost to replace resin vs. getting a new softener unit?<br />Thanks,<br />ualdriver<br /> <br />The size (hardness removal capacity) of the softener is dependent on the conditions of the water and water usage.<br />When we know the details of your water conditions I can give you some guidelines.<br />Resin is about $140 a cu ft plus the labor to install it, BUT if your softener is too small you'll be wasting a ton of money in water and salt.<br />One step at a time... post what the water guys tell you.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />The size (hardness removal capacity) of the softener is dependent on the conditions of the water and water usage.<br />When we know the details of your water conditions I can give you some guidelines.<br />Resin is about $140 a cu ft plus the labor to install it, BUT if your softener is too small you'll be wasting a ton of money in water and salt.<br />One step at a time... post what the water guys tell you.<br />OK, talked to the water guy this afternoon on the phone. It was the same guy who installed the water softener 6 years ago and he still had my paperwork and knew that I had a Fleckner timer and a resin tank.<br />I told him about our water usage and that the system WAS regenerating every night and that I had done a bad thing and touched the dials on the timer (he-he). He then asked me about my family's water usage, which I told him about.<br />I asked him if we should get our water tested and that if the unit installed was properly sized for the water conditions that exist in our town and our family's water usage. He said yes. He didn't think it was necessary to have our water tested as long as we thought the softener was working OK.<br />I asked him if he thought our resin was damaged and/or need to be replaced. He said it should last about 10-12 years.<br />He had me put the white dot opposite the 8 (800 gallons) and the capacity gallons arrow on the outer scale opposite 5 (500 gallons). He told me to ignore the little dial on the inside that has the picture of the man and the woman on it. He said that now the unit should regenerate every 4 days or so, based on what I told him about our usage, and that we should use about 12 lbs. of salt per regeneration.<br />He spent about 10 minutes on the phone explaining how the unit worked and such. Seems pretty straight forward now that it's been explained.<br />What do you think?<br />ualdriver<br /> <br />Get some hardness test strips and begin a systematic check of the water.<br />Test the water after regeneration and then again half way through the water usage.<br />Test the water just before it regenerates to see if it is holding soft.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />Get some hardness test strips and begin a systematic check of the water.<br />Test the water after regeneration and then again half way through the water usage.<br />Test the water just before it regenerates to see if it is holding soft.<br />And I just came back from Home Depot!! Alright, we'll buy those strips and check out the hardness.<br />Thanks for all your help.<br />ualdriver<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />Get some hardness test strips and begin a systematic check of the water.<br />Test the water after regeneration and then again half way through the water usage.<br />Test the water just before it regenerates to see if it is holding soft.<br />Another question for you. I reset the dials as stated earlier, but unfortunately when the softener went through its first regeneration cycle since the above dial reset, I think my Fleck died. When I woke up at 7AM, the dial on the left was stuck on back wash and the time in the window on the left was stuck at 2AM. There was also a popping mechanical type noise coming from the timer. When I called the technician last time, I remembered that he had said that if the time was set properly (and it was), the regeneration cycle would start at 2AM and last a hour or two, so something was obviously wrong. When I tried to rotate the large dial on the left out of backwash and into the in serv mode in order to get it to stop filling my ejector pump pit continuously, the knob was very difficult to move and I had to force it to the in serv position. So it's unplugged until TUE.<br />So anyway, the guy is coming out Tuesday. I assume(?) that the Fleck will have to be replaced, as I imagine mechanical devices like these aren't normally serviced.<br />1) What does a new Fleck cost?<br />2) Is there a commonplace, solid state/digital type timer that I should get that perhaps will last longer than the 6 years the Fleck lasted? Or am I better off with another Fleck?<br />Thanks,<br />ualdriver<br /> <br />Could be a failed motor, broken teeth on a gear, or a snapped locater pin. Since we don't know the history of your softener before you moved in let's not blame it.<br />Fleck control valves have a long and reliable field service history and can easily be repaired. If your local guy is competent he'll have the parts on the truck.<br />The question is, what will the total cost of parts and labor be to repair the valve versus replacing it with a newer technology model? The service tech should be able to give you a concise estimate before the repair.<br />If you want to, or it is cost effective, to replace the control valve I would use a Fleck 5600SE. It is a spin on replacement and is computer controlled with simple electronics which makes it much easier to screw up the settings<br />clcik here for Fleck 5600SE spec sheet<br />My reservation before spending money on a repair is that your softener IS correctly sized for your needs. You asked the local guy and he said yup but he didn't provide any capacity specs for your softener and we don't know the details of your water conditions. Just thinking out loud and trying to get you the biggest return on your money.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />Could be a failed motor, broken teeth on a gear, or a snapped locater pin. Since we don't know the history of your softener before you moved in let's not blame it.<br />Fleck control valves have a long and reliable field service history and can easily be repaired. If your local guy is competent he'll have the parts on the truck.<br />The question is, what will the total cost of parts and labor be to repair the valve versus replacing it with a newer technology model? The service tech should be able to give you a concise estimate before the repair.<br />If you want to, or it is cost effective, to replace the control valve I would use a Fleck 5600SE. It is a spin on replacement and is computer controlled with simple electronics which makes it much easier to screw up the settings<br />clcik here for Fleck 5600SE spec sheet<br />My reservation before spending money on a repair is that your softener IS correctly sized for your needs. You asked the local guy and he said yup but he didn't provide any capacity specs for your softener and we don't know the details of your water conditions. Just thinking out loud and trying to get you the biggest return on your money.<br />OK, didn't realize those things are repairable like that. I guess that's why the instructions you gave me before had the schematics.<br />I'll ask him again about it being properly sized when he shows up at the house. If he has to replace the timer, I'll ask him about the 5600se. What do they cost (the one I have now vs. the se?)<br />Thanks<br /> <br />5600SE control valves a la carte mail order are about $320 but are much more efficient than your timer based valve. Timer based valves went out with flat head engines. The new SE valves will save you water and salt.<br />Your local guy will need to add some profit to that and he'll be installing and doing the setup so he'll be charging for that also.<br />If your local guy doesn't like them new fangled digital controlled valves then have him get you a 5600 Econominder demand valve. Still more efficient than your timer model and also a screw on replacement.<br />If you want to see parts...<br />Here is the service manual for your 5600 timer valve and the 5600 metered valve... click here for Fleck 5600 service manual<br />Here is the service manual for the 5600SE valve... click here for Fleck 5600SE service manual<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />5600SE control valves a la carte mail order are about $320 but are much more efficient than your timer based valve. Timer based valves went out with flat head engines. The new SE valves will save you water and salt.<br />Your local guy will need to add some profit to that and he'll be installing and doing the setup so he'll be charging for that also.<br />If your local guy doesn't like them new fangled digital controlled valves then have him get you a 5600 Econominder demand valve. Still more efficient than your timer model and also a screw on replacement.<br />If you want to see parts...<br />Here is the service manual for your 5600 timer valve and the 5600 metered valve... click here for Fleck 5600 service manual<br />Here is the service manual for the 5600SE valve... click here for Fleck 5600SE service manual<br />Justalurker-<br />Thanks very much for taking the time to answer my questions. I'll post when I know how it goes!<br />Steve<br /> <br />You're welcome... please ship my Chicago dog with everything to:<br />Let us know how this works out.<br /> <br />Originally Posted by justalurker<br />You're welcome... please ship my Chicago dog with everything to:<br />Let us know how this works out.<br />OK, I had the local guy come out. He checked my Fleckner and said it was messed up. Unfortunately I was away from home, but my wife dealt with him. He said that I needed a new head ($148), a new piston and seals ($119) and charged $100 bucks for the service call, for a total of $367. He said that it was a good water softener for the water conditions and expected water usage, but that he'd be happy to put in a new softener for $1200+. He said that jokingly. Anyway, he seemed like a nice and honest guy and he told my wife that we should get at least another 6 years out of the unit after the repairs. He also said the resin should be good for another 6 years at least.<br />Anyway, hopefully that is the end of my problems!<br />Thanks for your help.......<br />ualdriver<br /><b>Tags</b>: explain, dials, water, softener, pictures, Originally Posted, your softener, water usage, service manual, water conditions, your waterAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-13214564269145462322014-03-12T20:45:00.005-07:002014-03-12T22:00:42.613-07:00Maytag Dishwasher Door Leak<br><br />My Maytag dishwasher leaks from the bottom of the door. I understand this is probably because the float is not working properly. I have fiddled a bit with the float, and the leak is not as bad, but is there an easy way to adjust the float level so I can drop the overall water level in the dishwasher?<br /> <br />Hi, model#, approx age? Most door leaks are not float related, over filling is more fill valve or poss a dirty float mechanism. Leaks at the door can be:<br />- gasket<br />- door latch<br />- gaskets on the door dispensors<br />- split spray arm<br /> <br />Model Number is DWU7400AAX (JetClean), and the washer is about 4 years old. Thanks for any help/advice.<br /> <br />Hi, that style of d/w has had many problems wit hthe soap door gasket leaking ( have a close look at where the soap arm comes out of the door ), there has also been some leaks around the rince aid dispensor but not as common as the soap dispensor arm gasket. A llose door lock or bad gasket will also allow d/w to leak at the door, a split spray arm can allow water to spray right at the door and cause a leak as well.<br /> <br />Thanks!<br /> <br />Jeff, the soap arm gasket looks very worn as you had suggested. It actualy appears to be missing on the top half. Can I lay down a bead of conventional silicone sealer in this area, or do I need a new gasket?<br /> <br />Hi, the part is under 5 dollars, get the new grommet and latch kit, silicone is not good for you and should not be used in a d/w.<br /> <br />Thanks again!<br /> <br />Hi, the part is under 5 dollars, get the new grommet and latch kit, silicone is not good for you and should not be used in a d/w.<br />How much is involved in replacing the grommet and latch kit?<br />Glenn<br /> <br />I had a problem with my model DWU7500AAX leaking from the lower right door hinge area. I tried readjusting the door gasket with no luck, and I also didn't see an obvious problem with other areas like the float, spray arm, or soap dispenser. I noticed the door gasket had a crease in it down the middle from the raised ridge all the way around the inside of the door. I thought maybe the door just wasn't making good contact with the gasket any more since this was a pretty old unit.<br />So before I bought a new gasket, I tried taking the old one out, turning it 180 degrees and reinserting it into the channel so that the crease was now on the inside and the smooth side was facing the door.<br />So far, after 1 cycle, it hasn't leaked.<br />Will update the thread if it develops a leak again, otherwise assume it worked.<br />Good luck.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/nbOp93Z5I8k" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/nbOp93Z5I8k" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: maytag, dishwasher, door, leak, door gasket, grommet latch, dollars grommet, dollars grommet latch, dollars grommet latch silicone, dollars grommet latch silicone good, good should, good should usedAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-25761129856081482312014-03-12T20:45:00.004-07:002014-03-12T22:00:31.337-07:00Hunter Douglas Ultraglide Cord Snapped!<br><br />Help! The cord on our Hunter Douglas Duette Honeycomb shade with the Ultraglide option has finally decided to give way. The remaining part of the cord (which is the flat, multistranded section, not the rounded visible section) has<br />been sucked back into the Ultraglide mechanism.<br />Is it worth opening up the housing to try and salvage what's<br />left of the cord (if I can even find the end)? Should I try and<br />order a replacement kit from Hunter Douglas or other site (links appreciated)? Is it cost effective to have a repair shop handle it? Or should I bite the bullet and just buy a new one (not cheap, as this one covers a 6ft span)??<br />We have 10 other similar shades, most that have double cords to accomodate the top-down-bottom-up Ultraglide options, which are also showing the cord fraying trait which preceded the mishap - all about 8 yrs old - past warranty - ouch!<br /> <br />If you're handy, order a kit from Hunter Douglas and give it a try. Depending on how you make out and you don't want to do the others, bring them to a Hunter Douglas dealer for repair.<br /> <br />even as an installer and a guy that does a lot of repairs, I would pass this one on to a dealer who will send it to HD to be restrung.. If you bring it to the shop and pick it up you shouldn't be charged more than 50 bucks..<br /> <br />Thanks BLD and johnam for responding!<br />I have replaced cording on standard honeycomb shades before, however it's the idea of the Ultraglide mechanism I find a bit intimidating. The prospect of a professional tackling the job for only $50 may sway me towards that decision...going to think on this one for a bit....thanks again!<br /> <br />If you order an ultraglide control mechanism from HD, it will come pre-loaded with the flat tapelike cord already installed. There will be plenty of this cord hanging out from the mechanism that you can reattach your lower, visible section to.<br />Be sure to specify if your mechanism is at the right or left end of the headrail too.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/D2-7E3JHUTE" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/D2-7E3JHUTE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: hunter, douglas, ultraglide, cord, Hunter Douglas, from Hunter, from Hunter Douglas, Ultraglide mechanism, visible sectionAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-13363871497468410522014-03-12T20:45:00.003-07:002014-03-12T22:00:20.226-07:00Given These Facts Deck Stain Diy Or Pay Professional<br><br />Any help is much appreciated.<br />Some background. I have a relatively new home - it will be two years old in November. The deck was (obviously) built new. It's weathered two summers and two winters and has not been treated in any way.<br />It's still in pretty good shape, though it shows a touch of mildew here and there. (see photos below).<br />My wife and I are pretty fussy about quality, looks, finish. I tried to stain the deck myself and was unhappy with how it was coming out. I was brushing on stain using a water clean up stain and ended up with some unevenness and some shiny spots (flashing I believe), from overapplication.<br />Also, when I tried some deckwash products, I had horrible results. A pro-painter who looked at the deck felt it was in good enough shape that no washing or preping was needed.<br />I received quotes around $1200 to do the deck, top and bottom and I really don't want to pay that kind of cash.<br />So my specific questions are:<br />1. Is there a method (other than just being a better brusher) that will give me a more even look, but do a decent job? Pads? Spray?<br />2. From the photos, would you agree that no prep is needed (for a semi-transparent)? What about the very light mildewing? Can I just stain over it?<br />3. Do I need to worry about the rather largish black mildew stains on the underside of the deck? Do they cause any structural damage or can I just leave the underside go?<br />4. For someone relatively inexperienced at this type of job, can I expect decent results if I'm careful, or should I just knuckle under and pay the cash?<br />Any insight is VERY MUCH appreciated!<br />Uneveness and flashing...<br />Current condition of deck:<br />Very light mildewing:<br /> <br />Welcome to the forums!<br />I would never recommend staining/painting over mildew! It's almost always a good idea to wash the deck prior to staining. I would wash your deck both to get rid of the mildew and lighten up the gray wood. The way I clean a deck is to mix up a bleach/water solution [never stronger than 50%! and apply it with a pump up garden sprayer, let it set but not dry and then rinse with a pressure washer. A garden hose can be substituted for the PWer. If the underside is halfway accessible, I'd clean it too, just to make it look better. Heavy mildew can hold moisture that might shorten the life of the deck.<br />Once it's dry, your ready for the stain. The best way to avoid lap marks is to stain one board at a time - actually you can do several as long as your fast enough to always keep a wet edge. It is also possible to roll the stain on and then take your brush and smooth it out. This definitely a diy doable project - all you need is the willingness to work and a little direction<br /> <br />I wash my deck the same way Mark does except I don't have a pressure washer. Then I brush on the stain, which pretty much ensures I only do one board at a time.<br /> <br />I'm not sure how effective the chemical option is - my deck looks like yours and I tried some of that acid deck cleaner, it helped somewhat the wood still looks gray - I did use quite a diluted solution but I'm still not sure that it's not somewhat harmful to animals - my pooch likes to lie under the deck - call me paranoid.<br />Here is the harder and somewhat more expensive way but it is still not gonna cost you $1200. Rent one of those big rotary push sanders from Homedepot and pay someone $15 per hour to sand the deck down - take two hours tops. I wound go with a relatively mild grit 200 or so and then when the boards look like they have just been freshly cut in a saw mill you can add the clear stain. As for the railings not sure how you can do that, perhaps hand sanding or something.<br />(My deck was sanded down very aggressively over two years ago and due to my neglect it looks like your deck now - it will look amazing after you sand it - don't forget to hammer down the nails a little if the braniac deck builder used them - hopefully not)<br /> <br />No way would I sand this, the bleach/water solution Mark and I suggested will remove the grey - my deck was almost black and was blonde in two cleanings.<br /> <br />Mitch, I confess I'm not a professional by any means but will the bleaching bring back the natural color of the wood? My redwood deck still looked grayish after the chemical application. And also do you know what the chemical will do to the grass etc?<br /> <br />Bleach will not necessarily bring back the natural color of the wood - mine was actually lighter than the original color when I finished - but then you can seal with whatever color stain you like.<br />I rinse the deck off with the hose, then apply the bleach/water solution and hose it off well after I'm done scrubbing. With all that additional water, the bleach solution hitting the lawn is so weak it doesn't cause any problems.<br />I'm assuming you used oxalic acid, which is wood bleach but I've never used it to know what kind of impact it would have on plantlife - I would guess the results would be the same as bleach if the process was similar to what I did.<br /> <br />I don't use the oxalic bleach either but it is suppose to be more user and environmentally friendly. That said, I've never had any issue with the bleach/water solution hurting any vegetation. Like Mitch, I thoroughly wet down any vegetation that might come in contact with the cleaning solution, I'll also periodically rerinse those areas as needed. Occasionally plastic will be needed to shield the plant life - just be careful and don't cook the plants under the plastic. Animals will not want to be under the deck while the cleaning is in process, what is left once the cleaning is done won't harm the animals.<br />There is a wood brightner that can be used after cleaning to help bring back the color but I've really never seen the need since thorough cleaning with a bleach/water solution usually does a good enough job.<br /> <br />Found this article here to be pretty interesting http://saversystems.com/wood-article...eck-like-a-pro<br />Im currently pressure washing and prepping my back deck for stain. Its about 12 years old and doesnt look like it was ever stained. After pressure washing it i applied at 3 part water to 1 part bleach mixture to help knock out some of the mildew. I applied the bleach mixture with a 5 gallon solo backpack sprayer. It knocked some of the mildew out really nice and brightened up most of the wood.<br />Today i pulled out all of the nails that were sticking out and replaced them with some lifetime warrantied decking wood screws. I have to pick up some longer 3 1/2 nails to finish the job for the corner poles and floor boards.<br />Im thinking of picking up some wood brightner tomorrow also. The brighter the wood the better the stain will look. Also i wanted the wood to dry for 72 hours so it would be completely dry for staining. But it keeps raining and messing that up for me.<br />Sorry if i misspelled anything im posting from my phone.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/qVT3vglwjTs&list=PL05A25E56BCE2E50E" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/qVT3vglwjTs&list=PL05A25E56BCE2E50E" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: deck, stain, professional, bleach water, bleach water solution, water solution, bring back, back natural, back natural color, back natural color wood, bleach mixtureAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-50820266658983174342014-03-12T20:45:00.002-07:002014-03-12T22:00:09.025-07:00Diy Countertop Resurfacing<br><br />The only thing left to do in my kitchen is to update the countertops. We are preparing to put this house on the market this spring and we don't want to sink TOO much cash into the remaining fix-ups.<br />The countertops in our kitchen are what went into the house back in 1971. Nasty light green formica. I've heard that as long as the formica itself is in good condition, you can actually have them 'resurfaced' with a good heat resistant epoxy in a different color without even having to remove the sink or cooktop, etc.<br />Is there a user friendly DIY product on the market for this purpose, or is this really an undertaking best left to a professional?<br />Thanks<br /> <br />Actually, the substrate is what needs to be good. It often rots out around the sink area. But you can install another layer of formica over the existing. I am not that crazy about coatings on laminate(formica). The surface must be properly preped or the new surface will fail quickly. The old surface must be thoroughly cleaned to remove years of grease, dirt, etc., then scuffed with sandpaper to provide tooth for whatever comes next, be it epoxy or new laminate. Laminate is inexpensive and will spruce up the kitchen, and last. Not sure about epoxies.<br /> <br />I know it's more expensive, but I would replace it. Provided there aren't any weird installation problems, the prefab sections are fairly inexpensive at the big box stores. More labor involved, of course, but the results are worth it. We replaced ours last year (for our own benefit, not sales) and we love it. Among other things the old countertop was square-edged and two-part (surface and backsplash). The new stuff has the rounded edge and is one piece. If you resurface or recover the existing counters what you may end up with is counters that look like redone 35 year old counters.<br /> <br />Get new laminate countertops. The preformed ones with the integrated backsplash are the most economical ones. Updated color selections include those that look like marble, granite, natural stone, and concrete.<br />Keep in mind that updated kitchens and bathrooms help sell a house at the asking price and will likely expedite the sale. New countertops will catch the eye of the potential buyer, and they will see that countertop replacement will not have to be on their to-do list upon moving into their new home. In other words, you will get your return on the investment in new countertops.<br />While there are coatings for just about every surface, coatings for countertops tend not to be a long-term, durable option. Countertops are subjected to lots of use and abuse, and coating failure is common.<br /> <br />I just built new laminate countertops from scratch for the first time and it was surprisingly easy. The most difficult part is by far putting together the substrate since its shape has to be perfect. Gluing the laminate on top of it is actually very simple if a little bit stinky. Since you already have the counter in place, maybe that's a viable alternative. All you really need is the sheet of laminate (paid $230 for a 5'12' of Formica brand, granite look alike), a router ($100), the proper bits ($40), a few clamps ($10), contact cement ($25), a j-roller ($15) and a file ($5). It would require removing the sink to do a good job, but that's easy enough.<br />my 2 cents,<br />JP<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/4-KZAYivRA8" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/4-KZAYivRA8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: countertop, laminate countertops, look like, market this, surface must, that look, that look likeAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-72233186016173595412014-03-12T20:45:00.001-07:002014-03-12T21:59:57.929-07:00Bryant Circuit Breaker Replacement<br><br />I need to replace the circuit breaker serving my clothes dryer (240V). The identification info on the breaker is worn off, but all the other breakers are Bryant type BR, so I assume this one is also. It appears to actually be two identical breakers, but the on/off switches are held together with a metal cover strip. The cover strip has a window that shows that one of the breakers is 30 amp. The on/off switch handles are green.<br />I have had to replace another breaker before, and I know they pop out from the breaker box. The box has a blade that the breaker fits onto. For some reason, I can't seem to get this twin breaker out of the box.<br />Is there some trick to getting this type of breaker out of the box? Or is it just hard to get out?<br /> <br />What is the reason for the replacement? It is possible that the breaker connection to the bus bar has been arcing and has welded itself to the bus bar. In which case, if there is no other available spaces left in the panel for a breaker to be added, a new panel is in your future.<br /> <br />Donnie-<br />The breaker was tripped this morning immediately after my wife started the dryer (which has never been tripped before). When I went down to look at things a few minutes later, the breaker was in a sort of halfway position between on and off. I unplugged the dryer and tried to reset the breaker, but the switch had a sort of weak action to it, and it would not stay in either a full off or on position.<br />I looked at the dryer and noticed a burning odor coming from it (definitely NOT coming from the breaker). I'm in the process of diagnosing the dryer problem. But I figure I better replace the breaker too while I'm at it.<br /> <br />I have those type BR's in my Siemens box, I just when to Lowes and bought a new 2-pole 30amp breaker for my air compressor and the replacement for it was a Cutler Hammer and it cost $7.81. Siemens type QT, QP and QPH work too but you wont find them anymore.<br />Since the breaker went bad you may want to have your wire to your dryer checked out. but my guess is moisture is the culprit.<br />If you have any trouble finding the breaker at Lowes ask the guy that works the electrical dept. They know a whole bunch about replacing discontinued stuff.<br /> <br />Try unplugging the dryer and see if the breaker will reset. Move it to full off, and then to full on. It sounds as though the dryer is the problem and not the breaker.<br /> <br />Donnie-<br />I had already disconnected the dryer when I tried to reset the breaker. But I tried again, and now the breaker seems to have reset, but I think I'll hit Lowe's for a replacement just in case.<br />Still trying to isolate the problem with the dryer.<br />Thanks for the help!!<br /> <br />thanx for all the info in this thread!!!<br />I found it after I posted a similar one...except apparently I have more than 1 problem!<br />I have fixed the dryer problems, as far as I can tell...BUT the breaker is another story!<br />NO ONE EXPLAINED THE HOW part of removing the BRYANT style breaker...that one is stumping me!<br />HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN A BREAKER IS BAD?...or weak as some others have said???<br />Really appreciate any advice.<br />Thanx,<br />Sam<br /> <br />The Answer<br />Turn off Main, And PULL LIKE HELL<br />From the center opposite the end where the wire is connected!!!<br />BTW any number of breakers replace the Bryant Murray, GE, Homeline, any of the Standard interchangables<br />If tripped to many times the Springs in the breaker lose some of thier tension!!! So thats what is meant by loose!!! I wouldn't replace the breaker if it holds after repairing the Dryer !!! Unless it keeps on Nuisance tripping!!!!<br /> <br />thanx...<br />Nuisance~~~In deed!!!!<br />I pulled it and replaced it...cause it started popping off even when the dryer was unplugged!!!<br />I thought only one outlet on that circuit...but after looking behind the insulation a previous owner tapped into it and added another outlet...had a sump pump hooked up to it...So tomorrow I am going to investigate that possible problem area.<br />Thanx again!<br />Sam<br /> <br />A sump pump on a 30 amp breaker??? That doesn't sound right. Check the sump pump rating and install a properly sized circuit.<br /> <br />Be a good idea to remove the sump pump from that Circuit and replace it with a 20 Ampere #12 Wire Circuit with a GFCI receptacle.. If the GFCI trips when the pump is plugged in time to replace the pump or [pump motor, you prolly have a ground fault (Neutral shorted to ground in motor)<br />BE SAFE !!!! Death by eloctrocution is not pleasant<br /> <br />Wow...what do they say~~~when it rains it pours!!!...LOL!<br />Thanx to all of you for you info...you all were right (kinda)...<br />1. breaker popping but varying symptoms...<br />2. upon investigation, found probs with heating element mounts that led to a short in the elementled to a shorted/melted wire..<br />3. Apparently a weakened breaker...NEW BREAKER installed...<br />***BAM!!!<br />4. Breaker kicking off before I even had the DRYER pluged in????<br />5.(20 yo house we bought)...(meaning lots of lil (probably illegal, definately stupid mods done by previous inhabitants)...<br />DANG if I don't find another circuit tapped into the dryer outlet when I remove the cover...SEEMS someone wanted to power the storage shed some years back.<br />6. Now back-tracking...We had severe damage from Hurricane Isabel...and just finished the repairs...THE DAY BEFORE THE BIG FREEZE AND SNOW STORM (that we just defrosted from)...<br />We had 8 trees removed and 9 stumps ground down @1.5' below the surface...<br />Me thinks that probably the stump grinder came close enough to that mistery cable run...close enough to introduce moisture but not actually cut the line...after a week of thawing and soggy ground it got to it enough to cause a ground fault!<br />So, I disconnected that link, reset the breaker, pluged in the dryer and am finishing the last load of laundry as I type...<br />Thanx again!!!<br />Sam<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/NCqGjqoc_Ts" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/NCqGjqoc_Ts" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: bryant, circuit, breaker, replacement, sump pump, reset breaker, close enough, coming from, cover strip, dryer problem, from breakerAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-26538109327825663272014-03-12T20:45:00.000-07:002014-03-12T21:59:46.769-07:00Ademco 5808lst Chirp/Ticking Normal<br><br />Just received a Ademco 5808LST detector. Put batteries in (supposevly new) and the thing makes a quiet chirp/tick noise every 10 seconds. The red light will flash with the chirp about every minute.<br />The chirp is pretty faint, but I can hear it if I am holding the unit. I have not enrolled it into my system yet because I don't know if this is normal.<br />I haven't tried NEW batteries yet because they are quiet expensive, but the seller said they are brand new.<br />Is this faint chirp and 1 minute flash normal?<br /> <br />Too add:<br />I just replaced batteries ($16). Still making an annoying chirp sound every ten seconds.<br />I also enrolled it into my system, no error messages or anything...<br />BAH! Now I get a COMM.FAILURE on keypad. Central station says they received my fire test signals though.<br />This failure happened sometime after I reconnected transformer power (to reset fire trouble).<br /> <br />If it is very faint it may be the relay or circuit that powers the LED light. If the light is flashing around every 90 -120 seconds then it is good. I have the same smoke and never noticed a noise, but it is on a ceiling.<br /> <br />From the install instructions:<br />The detector checks for low batteries at least every 60 minutes. If a low battery is detected, the transmitter sends a low battery message to the control panel, which beeps and displays the detector's ID. This condition will exist for a minimum of seven days, and then the detector's horm will chirp about every 40 seconds. The batteries should be replaced BEFORE the chirps begin. BE SURE TO REPLACE BOTH BATTERIES WITH FRESH ONES.<br />I know you replaced the batteries, but it can't hurt to check them. These lithium batteries have a tendency to not get proper stock rotation. I've gotten duds out of a brand new pack more than once in the past.<br />The comm failure may have been because you interrupted the system dialer by powering down (assuming that all other programming associated with the new device was correct).<br /> <br />I think I figured it out.<br />I removed the shell of the detector and noticed that there were two pairs of what looks like heat resistors. They were twisted up and mating against these little pegs that go around the outside of the screen. I straighted them back up so they are not grounding out, and the chirping stopped. One of the pegs is loose so I don't trust it anymore and returning the detector for another one.<br />Programming was easy, I justed went into the *56 field, assigned it to zone 18 and set zone type as 9, then pressed test on detector to enroll it. That all worked fine.<br />The COMM. FAILURE is no longer on the keypad. When it was, I tripped he alarm and the panel dialed out correctly reporting the faulted zone. Hopefully it doesn't come back up.....<br /><b>Tags</b>: ademco, 5808lst, chirp, normal, every seconds, about every, chirp about, chirp about every, COMM FAILURE, enrolled into, enrolled into systemAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-75735317919345043572014-03-11T20:31:00.010-07:002014-03-11T21:38:42.108-07:00Unusual Gifts For Teenagers<p>Teens</p><br /><p>No matter what your budget, you can provide a gift for your teen that is as unique as he is. Whether it is something to encourage her computer interests, fulfill his tech fantasies or broaden her horizons beyond the border of her bedroom, giving a unique gift will make the celebration a memorable occasion. Here are some ideas to get you on your way.</p><br /><p><h2>Gadgets and Geeks</h2></p><br /><p>Both practical and fun, an electronic gadget, toy or tool will delight any tech-minded teen. For the power user, select a solar paneled backpack to help keep him charged up all day and all night. A solar panel on the backpack can recharge iPods, cell phones and even lap top batteries with a few extra accessories and is a great gift for the teen who constantly uses power-greedy devices.</p><br /><p>If you are not able to purchase a new lap or desk top computer for your teen, purchase a USB drum kit that enables your tech rocker to play the drums on her computer with just a tap of a mini-stick. A fun diversion while doing homework, a simple plug-and-play drum set that doesn't take up any space will thrill your teen.</p><br /><p>Be a hero by presenting your teen computer geek with her own stock certificate for Microsoft. One share is an affordable choice and makes a teen feel involved in the market. Frame the certificate for that extra touch. See links below for details on purchase.</p><br /><p><h2>Teen Adventures</h2></p><br /><p>All About Visiting Earth organizes a variety of adventures both domestically and abroad just for teens. Whether it's a wilderness adventure, a surfing trip or a real journey of discovery in Asia, Africa or Australia, a teen adventure trip is not just a gift idea for a birthday or graduation, but a gift of confidence and a greater world view that will last the rest of your teen's life.</p><br /><p>Well organized and available for a variety of ages, trips usually last about a month. Food and shelter are included. Add a digital camera to the gift so you can share the adventure when she returns.</p><br /><p><h2>Extreme Sports</h2></p><br /><p>Get your teen the Razor Ripstick for this new spin on the classic skateboard. A perfect choice for your extreme sports nut who has already mastered skateboard tricks and snowboarding, this unique device is lightweight and combines all the challenges of traditional skateboards, snowboards and surfing. Available in exciting colors to further personalize the gift.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xiyBBW9wDRc" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xiyBBW9wDRc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-67157859152652462522014-03-11T20:31:00.009-07:002014-03-11T21:38:31.031-07:00Reasons For A Knee To Buckle<p>Elastic bands can support patellar instability during repetitive activities.</p><br /><p>Bending, twisting, kneeling, running and even standing, knees absorb a lifetime of abuse. Repetitive use of the knee joint can cause inflammation and tenderness to the surrounding muscles, tendons and ligaments. Knee movements are a complicated connection of tissue, bone and cartilage working in unison. Poor muscle tone, injury and wear and tear can reduce the ability of the joint to support the weight of the hips. Without a support system, the knee buckles.</p><br /><p><h2>Posterior Cruciate Ligament Injury</h2></p><br /><p>If you injure your knee, apply ice for inflammation and kinesio tape for stability and healing.</p><br /><p>Bending or extending the knee beyond its range of motion or injury to the side of the knee while the leg is twisted can cause the knee to give out or buckle. Attaching the femur to the tibia are ligaments. The cruciate ligaments connect these two bones with an X shaped ligament across the back and front of the knee. Repetitive movements can create stress and injure the ligament located behind the knee. These ligaments develop tiny tears to the tissue fibers surrounding the femur and the tibia, which weakens the tendons and tightens the quadriceps muscles of the thigh. Once this joint becomes unstable, it can buckle under any pressure, depending on the movement of the knee. Other symptoms of posterior cruciate ligament damage include mild to moderate pain in the knee and pain when walking up or down stairs, according to the Mayo Clinic.</p><br /><p><h2>Meniscus Tears</h2></p><br /><p>Seek medical attention for continued pain, inflammation or buckling.</p><br /><p>The meniscus is made of tough but flexible cartilage that acts as a shock absorber between the femur and the tibia. A sudden twist of the knee while walking, exercising or kneeling can cause this tearing. Once the meniscus is torn, each movement of the knee pulls on the muscles, tendons and ligaments attached to the joint. Continued stress to the supporting tissues allow the knee to pop or buckle as it moves out of its normal alignment. Weak quadriceps muscles and tendinitis may also develop because of small or large tears to the medial or lateral cartilage cushion. This combination of circumstances can lead to increased pain and knee buckling.</p><br /><p><h2>Anterior Cruciate Ligament Injury</h2></p><br /><p>Damage to the ACL can cause knee buckling. Sudden impact sports cause common anterior cruciate ligament injuries. A popping sound is preceded by the knee buckling, followed by intense pain, swelling and an inability to stand on the knee. There are less common instances, though, when the ACL weakens from repetitive stress just as the posterior cruciate ligament. Micro tears develop from constant twisting and extension of the knee joint while standing on a factory assembly line, skiing, dancing or even working as a massage therapist.</p><br /><p><h2>Considerations</h2></p><br /><p>Tight and painful quadricep muscles can result from patellar tendinitis or instability.</p><br /><p>A 2003 study by the Harvard Medical School reported 451,000 knee replacement procedures performed in the United States. Each year, the medical school notes, Americans make approximately 15 million trips to the doctor for knee pain. Exercises designed to strengthen and stretch the muscles supporting the joint may be all an individual needs to heal their knee pain. The knees and hips are the largest joints in the body and are responsible for supporting a person's weight. In order to relieve knee pain, tone leg and hip muscles and maintain a healthy weight. With just 10,000 steps a day, any individual can improve her health and joint strength.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Q1caA-uU1iU" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Q1caA-uU1iU" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-50809627009194314202014-03-11T20:31:00.008-07:002014-03-11T21:38:19.951-07:00Use Dazzle Video Creator Plus<p>Convert the RCA signal from your VHS to a digital video file.</p><br /><p>Pinnacle's Dazzle Video Creator Plus is a device that allows users to convert analog-transmitted video, such as VHS tapes or the feed from a gaming console, into a digital media file. The device connects to the USB port of your computer and includes software for recording and storing video files. These files can then be edited on your computer and shared with friends via sites like YouTube.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Connect your Dazzle Video Creator Plus to the USB port of your computer. If this is the first time you have connected the device, insert the included CD into your computer's disc drive and follow the onscreen prompts to install the drivers and software for your Video Creator.</p><br /><p>2. Connect the device whose video you wish to capture on your computer to the RCA or S-Video port of the Dazzle Video Creator Plus.</p><br /><p>3. Open the Video Creator Plus software from your desktop or the Pinnacle folder in your computer's Start menu.</p><br /><p>4. Press Play on your VHS recorder or other device to display a video feed within the Video Creator Software. Fast-forward or rewind until the media is at the point where you want to start capturing video.</p><br /><p>5. Click the Start Recording button. Your video will be captured in real-time. When you no longer want to ingest video, click Stop to finalize the capture.</p><br /><p>6. Open the File menu and click Save. Specify the location and file name for your video then click Save again to save the captured video to your computer.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>The Creator is a high-speed device that works best if connected to the ports in your computer tower or box, not those on your keyboard or any external hub.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/BtI0ZEQDb1o" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BtI0ZEQDb1o" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-59133342181751099752014-03-11T20:31:00.007-07:002014-03-11T21:38:09.140-07:00Replace The Shifter Cable On A Chevy Tahoe<p>The shifter cable can be inspected by putting the Tahoe on a lift.</p><br /><p>The Chevy Tahoe ranks in the Top 8 SUVs in the United States for affordability. Test drives, safety and reliability are points leading to the Tahoe receiving the high-performance rating. The Tahoe can seat nine people comfortably and is at the higher end for mileage when compared to other SUVs in its class. The Chevy Tahoe is an off-road vehicle with a multitude of uses including off-road excursions and the ability to tow mid-sized boats. The shifting cable of the Tahoe can be replaced simply by a skilled backyard mechanic.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Climb inside the Tahoe cab with an open-ended wrench set. Slide your fingers under the rubber boot on the floor of the Tahoe cab. Inside the rubber boot is the stick shift. The stick shift attaches to the shifting cable on the top of the transmission.</p><br /><p>2. Slide one open-end wrench over the nut and one over the head of the bolt. Hold the wrench with the nut in place as you loosen the bolt with the second wrench. Lift up to remove the stick shift.</p><br /><p>3. Find the two locations the shift cable attaches to the shifting arm in your Tahoe. Use an open-end wrench and remove the bolts connecting the shift cable in both places. Pull the cable out through the rubber boot.</p><br /><p>4. Thread the new shift cable through the rubber boot and to the end of the shift arm. Reattach the cable with the bolts. Put the Tahoe shift stick in place and tighten the bolt with the open-end wrenches.</p><br /><p>5. Move the stick shift back and forth to check the movement from one gear to the next. If the movement is smooth and shifts every gear then put the rubber boot back in place.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>When working on replacing the shifting cable, look around your transmission to see if there is any maintenance that could help extend the life of the transmission.</p><br /><p>Put the emergency brake on when working on the transmission components of a vehicle to prevent accidents.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KG6Fp1xbyGI" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KG6Fp1xbyGI" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-34749594644511844232014-03-11T20:31:00.006-07:002014-03-11T21:37:58.027-07:00Remove A Rocker Cover For A 2000 Harley Road Glide<p>Rocker boxes receive the upper end of the hydraulic pushrods and contain the rocker arms</p><br /><p>In order to perform mechanical work on the upper end of a Harley-Davidson Road Glide motorcycle, the rocker box cover must first be removed. Rocker boxes receive the upper end of the hydraulic pushrods and contain the rocker arms. Removal should proceed in an orderly fashion in a precise order of steps. The length of time needed to accomplish this task will depend greatly upon skill level and will generally be between 45 and 60 minutes.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Take out the four screws located on top of the rocker box with a hex wrench. Remove the seals to each screw.</p><br /><p>2. Remove the upper and middle rocker covers with their associated gaskets.</p><br /><p>3. Rotate the engine to allow both valves to close on the cylinder. Free the rocker arm bolts with an SAE socket wrench.</p><br /><p>4. Mark each rocker arm shaft with a marking pen so that they may be re-assembled back into their same positions. Pull out these shafts by tapping them with a hammer and soft metal punch.</p><br /><p>5. Mark each rocker arm with a marking pen. Each rocker should be noted for both location and orientation. Take out the rocker arms.</p><br /><p>6. Remove all remaining fasteners holding the lower rocker arm cover to the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Remove the lower cover.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/3SuzH2ToplM" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/3SuzH2ToplM" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-20808966007775324662014-03-11T20:31:00.005-07:002014-03-11T21:37:46.954-07:00Make My Boots Not Slippery<p>Make your boots skid resistant.</p><br /><p>A fall on the runway or pavement evokes embarrassment or injury that even models and beauty pageant contestants have experienced. Put your best foot forward by breaking in all new footwear, as most falls can be avoided by adding traction to the soles of new shoes or boots. If you want to make your boots less slippery, properly prepare new footwear so you can confidently walk tall in those fashionable new flats, stilettos or boots.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p><h2>Grinding the Soles</h2></p><br /><p>1. Stand on a concrete or gravel area while wearing your new shoes or boots. One foot at a time, begin slowly grinding your foot to the left and right as if you were putting out a cigarette on the pavement. Continue to grind the soles of each shoe until the surface no longer feels slick or slippery. This adds traction to the soles of your footwear.</p><br /><p>2. Inspect the soles. Continue to grind the surface of the soles against the pavement until all the slick or glossy-looking areas disappear. Grinding the heel of your footwear is not necessary.</p><br /><p>3. Take a brief walk to evaluate the comfort and safety of your new pair of shoes.</p><br /><p><h2>Other Methods</h2></p><br /><p>4. Buy inexpensive adhesive traction pads. These can be found at many retail stores and are simply peeled and applied to the soles of new footwear.</p><br /><p>5. Craft traction support from strips of adhesive-backed sandpaper found at skateboard shops or craft stores. These are applied to the soles of shoes.</p><br /><p>6. Rub sandpaper gently across the heels of your footwear.</p><br /><p>7. Fit your shoes or boots with different heels or soles at your local shoe repair shop for increased traction.</p><br /><p><h2>Tips Warnings</h2></p><br /><p>Home methods such as applying duct tape or soft drinks to shoe surfaces should be avoided. Unsecured edges of tape are unsightly and could present an additional fall hazard. Sticky substances such as soft drinks or glues can leave unwanted residue on floors.</p><br /><p>Choose activity-appropriate footwear while at work in slippery environments or inclement weather. Opt for footwear with deeper treads and patterns for icy or wet weather versus slick-soled boots or shoes.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/HEws5WpnTFQ" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/HEws5WpnTFQ" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-28732961366739183202014-03-11T20:31:00.004-07:002014-03-11T21:37:35.893-07:00Get Wrinkles Out Of Suede<p>Smooth wrinkles from suede.</p><br /><p>Suede is leather with raised naps. Its softness and pliability make it suitable for clothing but the thinness makes it delicate and susceptible to wrinkles. Storing suede garments in roomy closets will prevent them from developing wrinkles.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Spread the suede garment on an ironing board. Put a sheet of brown paper on top of the wrinkled portion of the garment. In Sew Leather, Suede, Fur, the authors say you can also use a press cloth. Press cloths are made of two natural fabrics, one on either side of the cloth. For instance, cotton on one side and wool on the other.</p><br /><p>2. Switch the iron on and set it to the lowest heat. Turn off the steam. Never use steam on suede to avoid destroying the leather.</p><br /><p>3. Iron the garment through the brown paper until it is smooth. Move the iron constantly so the garment does not overheat. Overheating the suede will cause it to darken.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/p-qUlm6oOnc" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/p-qUlm6oOnc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-69654368954195948262014-03-11T20:31:00.003-07:002014-03-11T21:37:24.072-07:00Clean Vegetable Oil Spills<p>While cooking in the kitchen, you accidentally spill vegetable oil. Your first instinct is to grab a towel and wipe it up. However, wiping the spill can spread the oil around the countertop or flooring rather than absorbing and cleaning it up. If left uncleaned, the oil can leave behind a stain, particularly in unsealed or porous tiles and stones, or leave the floor or countertop slick or slippery. Properly cleaning the vegetable oil as soon as the spill occurs can prevent the stains while fully removing all of the oil.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Dampen a soft, clean cloth or rag under cool to room temperature water. Wring the cloth. The cloth should be damp, not dripping wet.</p><br /><p>2. Lay the dampened cloth over the vegetable oil. Push downward to absorb as much oil as possible. Do not rub or wipe the oil, as this will spread it around. Lift the cloth.</p><br /><p>3. Sprinkle baking soda, cornmeal, sawdust or cat litter liberally over any remaining vegetable oil. Any of these products will absorb the oil, causing them to clump together. Allow the product to sit over the area for approximately an hour. Use a broom and dust pan or hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove.</p><br /><p>4. Repeat Steps 1 to 3 until all the oil is cleaned.</p><br /><p>5. Clean the area using a product safe for the material that the vegetable was spilled on to remove any remaining residue. For example, use a stone cleaner for granite countertops or tiles, or an all-purpose cleaner for tile or linoleum. Once clean, use a dry, clean towel or rag to dry the area.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/HKqDD057Fe8" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/HKqDD057Fe8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-46472291604664372212014-03-11T20:31:00.002-07:002014-03-11T21:37:13.108-07:00Capture With Dazzle Without Pinnacle Studios<p>Dazzle is a video signal adapter made by Pinnacle. The adapter allows the owner to connect a DVD player, video game console or similar video output device to a computer. This is the way many avid video game fans record their game play video footage. All dazzle models come with two pieces of software on the installation disc. One is a lite version of Pinnacle Studios and the other is a program called Instant DVD Recorder. You can capture with Dazzle without Pinnacle Studios installed.</p><br /><p><h2>Instructions</h2></p><br /><p>1. Insert the Dazzle installation CD in your CD-ROM drive on the PC. Follow the on-screen instructions to install the Instant DVD Recorder software. Restart your computer if prompted to do so.</p><br /><p>2. Download and install the Dazzle hardware drivers for your model and operating system. Visit the Pinnacle website and navigate to the Hardware drivers for Pinnacle/Dazzle* Studio Web page (see Resources). Click on the link for the hardware driver that corresponds to your Dazzle model and the Windows version your computer has installed. Select the desktop as the destination folder and click OK or Download. Double-click on the downloaded file. Follow the on-screen prompt to install the drivers. Restart the computer if prompted to do so.</p><br /><p>3. Plug the Dazzle into the PC. Plug one end of the included USB cable into the Dazzle's USB port. Plug the other end into one of the PC's USB ports.</p><br /><p>4. Double-click on the Instant DVD Recorder desktop icon to launch the program.</p><br /><p>5. Select your Dazzle model from the drop-down menu under the Video Source heading. Click the Options button and verify that the settings are correct. Verify that the video input is set to composite or S-video according to how your dazzle is connected to the video game console or similar device. U.S. users must have NTSC selected as the video type, while other countries must choose PAL. The audio input must be set to your Dazzle model for the sound to record properly. Click Next to continue.</p><br /><p>6. Choose Hard Disk Folder from the drop-down menu options for where you want to save the captured video files. Click the Browse button, then click Create a new folder. Choose the desktop as the location for the new folder and give the folder a name. Click OK. Click Next to continue.</p><br /><p>7. Click No when asked whether or not you want to include menus in the recording. Click Next to finish the setup process.</p><br /><p>8. Click the Start Recording button to begin the video capture with the Dazzle. Start playing the video game or push the play button on the video output device to create the video content.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/sl6vTpaJNTs" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/sl6vTpaJNTs" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-30011214717881953542014-03-11T20:31:00.001-07:002014-03-11T21:37:01.906-07:00Harleydavidson Road King Tire Specs<p>Harley-Davidson Road Kings first appeared in 1994. The dressers with wide whitewall tires over steel laced wheels hearken back to the 1940s and '50s cruisers of the touring family. They are characterized by large solid saddlebags covered with leather and definitive steering heads that support a rubber-mounted drivetrain, which shields you from engine vibrations. Dunlop designed tires specifically for this model.</p><br /><p><h2>Front Tire</h2></p><br /><p>Dunlop's multilayer, multitread front tire runs cooler because it has a tough solid compound in the center, which also increases strength and stability. The sides are layered with a lateral-grip compound to increase traction while turning, leaning and braking, while increasing durability. Lateral grooves in the tread move water to the edge of the tire for better traction. It's coded as 130/90B16 67H on the wheel, and its part number is 3031-81. The tire is 25.27 inches high and 5.23 inches wide with tread 5/32 inch deep. It can carry 677 pounds effortlessly on the interstate while inflated to 41 pounds per square inch.</p><br /><p><h2>Rear Tire</h2></p><br /><p>The first rain after a dry spell brings grease and oil to the surface of roads, making traction even worse than while driving in heavy rain. Lateral grooves in the rear tread improve traction and reduce hydroplaning on wet grease and oil by channeling it to the outside edges. It's composed of a tough compound surrounded by multiple layers of reinforced tread for maximum durability. It is coded 180/65B16 81H, with part number 3031-57. It's 26.22 inches high and 7.09 inches wide with tread that is 10/32 inch deep. The tire carries up to 1,019 pounds when the tire is inflated to 42 pounds per square inch.</p><br /><p><h2>Touring Tire</h2></p><br /><p>Dunlop added two fiberglass belts to a three-ply Road King touring tire to increase stability and strength. They are available for both front and back wheels, and are designed to carry heavy loads on long trips at interstate speed. In addition to channeling water to prevent hydroplaning, the lateral grooves in the tread generate heat for better traction in snow, dead leaves and puddles. They grip steel bridges even when wet.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/2Ur4YYQjWtE" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/2Ur4YYQjWtE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-29741384231362072014-03-11T20:31:00.000-07:002014-03-11T21:36:51.099-07:00Calphalon One Infused Anodized Vs Non Stick<p>Calphalon cookware comes in various sizes and forms. The user has several options when choosing a set. One decision involves choosing between infused anodized or nonstick cookware.</p><br /><p><h2>Similarities</h2></p><br /><p>Both types of cookware are made of heavy-gauge aluminum, oven safe to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Each piece also comes with a lifetime warranty.</p><br /><p><h2>Infused Anodized Material</h2></p><br /><p>The aluminum is subjected to an anodizing process, making it 30 percent harder than steel and building up an oxidized layer on the surface. The pans are infused with a release polymer to make them more resistant to sticking and staining.</p><br /><p><h2>Nonstick Material</h2></p><br /><p>The aluminum in these pans has two surfaces; the first, a slide nonstick surface, allows for easy food release. The second, a sear nonstick surface, seals in flavors.</p><br /><p><h2>Infused Anodized Use</h2></p><br /><p>Although these multipurpose pans can be used for a variety of cooking tasks, they are ideal for cooking meats and poultry.</p><br /><p><h2>Nonstick Use</h2></p><br /><p>Nonstick pans tend to work better for a wide variety of foods; the dual surfaces allows for even cooking and easy cleanup.</p><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/pn1qYunogR4" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/pn1qYunogR4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-89257927654255346112014-03-10T20:46:00.008-07:002014-03-10T21:44:15.802-07:00Trying To Build A Cedar Fence And Avoid Problems<br><br />After reading some of the previous posts I'm realizing how easy it is to mess up when you don't know what you are doing. I've come up with a design for a privacy fence that is like a shadow box without any space between. I've gone and purchased 81 6 X 6' western cedar pickets. These are not what I'd call boards because they are only 1/2 inch thick (from Lowes for only $2.60 a piece). Some of these are heavy and wet. Others are bone dry and very light.<br />I'm attempting to dry the pickets right in the sun in my back yard. I'm watching them to make sure they don't warp as they dry. So far so good. But maybe I'm just asking for trouble. A previous post mentioned that you don't force wet wood to dry in the sun unless you want warping. You are supposed to lay them flat, cover them, and wait for months I guess. So my first question is about the correct way to go about drying fresh wood boards. Keep in mind these 'boards' are only 1/2 inch thick.<br />My second question is whether or not I should use 8 (7 1/4 actual) or 6 (5 1/2 actual) wide horizontal boards for the fence.<br />The top image shows the fence using 7 1/4 wide horizontal boards. The second image shows a bottom up view to reveal how the the fence is constructed. It consists of offset pickets that are sandwiched between a pair of cedar boards on the top and the bottom. These are real boards with an actual thickness of 3/4. I'd like to use 5 1/2 wide horizontal boards but am not sure if that will be strong enough for a 8' wide panel. So do I really need 7 1/4 boards horizontals for structual strength ?<br />Thank in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.<br /> <br />You need a solid surface to mount your verticle boards to. 1x material used as horizontal stringers inset into the 4x4 posts will not be strong enough in my opinion. You have to toenail the 1x material into the 4x4 to get the inlay. The fact that you want to use cedar, a relatively soft wood, also adds to my concerns from a structural perspective. It will probably split at the nail holes when you add weight to it.<br /> <br />jjtbay,<br />Sundrying your boards is going to create problems for you. They will warp, twist, crack, bend, and everything else that a board can do to create headaches for you.<br />Best bet is to install them in the fence, regardless of wet or dry, and let mother nature take her course. At least installed, both ends of the boards are anchored in place. What happens in the middle is what happens.<br /> <br />czizzi, I see you point about the 1 X1s. To the extent possible I'm planning on fastening with screws and not nails. I'm hoping that pre-drilling pilot holes for the screws will avoid the problems of splitting. Would I be able to use a hardwood just for the 1x1s ?<br />As for drying the wood, isn't dry wood a pre-requisite for any kind of staining or waterproofing treatment? When I called up Cabot paints they also suggested it's a good idea to clean the wood before applying any kind stain / preservative to kill off any mold spores.<br />I also have to confess the design is not really my idea. It came from a place called Rustic fences http://www.rusticfences.com/. Here is their fence:<br />I think this fence is built entirely of 8 X 8' boards. And it looks like high grade cedar. That's way too expensive for me so that is why I'm using the 5 1/2 wide boards from Lowes. I wish I could see how they have fastened this fence to the 4X4s.<br /> <br />I am going to guess that there is a 2x4 stringer set at the extreme top and bottom located dead center on the 4x4 and screwed or toenailed in place. This 2x4 is then faced with a 1x6 to hide the 2x4 top and bottom. The pickets are then set on top of the 2x4 and nailed to the 1x6. Once the pickets are up, the opposite side gets the 1x6 added top and bottom with a 1x4 top cap to dress it out. All the endcuts of the pickets are then sandwiched between 1x6 decorative boards but the strength comes from the 2x4's hidden top and bottom. Finish off with nice post caps and you should have a beautiful fence.<br />So a slight modification to your design and you should be good to go.<br />Is the cedar from the box store square cut, or is it bevel cut. The only ones I have seen are used for siding and they are tapered along the width.<br />Dry them on the fence, not as individual pieces.<br /> <br />czizzi, That is some great insight you have. I'd never have guessed or thought of there being a hidden 2X4 support. As for the box store boards they are the same width with no tapering. But they do have a dog ear on top. But that is going to get covered up by the top horizontal board.<br />What I'm wondering now is how the pickets will positioned on the 2X4. If they are on top then 2X4, as shown below, then that will make the fence a shadow box which won't have the 100% privacy I'm looking for.<br />So I'm wondering if it's possible to have the pickets fastened to the board and then have the board fastened to the 2X4 like this:<br />another view<br />Of the 81 boards only one ended up with a bad warping after two days in the sun. The others all seem to look OK. They are now laying flat on my porch, covered, and away from the direct sun. It's going to be awhile till everything is ready to go for building them.<br /> <br />My suggestion was your second drawing. Follow the steps I've previously outlined. 2x4's up first, then one side 1x6 (top and bottom), then pickets, then other side 1x6 (top and bottom), finish with 1x4 on top.<br />Use the appropriate sized nails depending on which board you are putting up to prevent blow through of the nail out the other side of the fence.<br />Make sure your 4x4 posts are accurately spaced so that each fence panel looks balanced with the same approx. end cuts on the pickets on both sides of each panel.<br /> <br />Glad that you meant the second drawing ! That is the one I like best. Everything is looking good now except for one hopefully final dilemma. I've put two pickets next to a 2X4 and can see they are not as thick as the 2X4. The 2X4 is about 1/4 thicker. Should I put something between the pickets to make them as thick as the 2X4? Or maybe it would be better to see if I can have 1/4 taken off the 2X4s with a planer? Of course if these were real boards instead of cheapo pickets then I wouldn't have this problem. Putting material between the pickets sounds good because it would not weaken the 2X4s but then I'm wondering what material would be best. If I used thin hardwood laminate, which I think comes in 1/4 thickness, then over time might that decay away? That would especially be the case for the lower edge of the fence which is not protected from the elements.<br /> <br />The inlayed pickets while functional from a visual perspective are not structural from a practical perspective. They are merely there to provide a screen. The strength comes from the 2x4's.<br />Think of a kitchen cabinet door, many have a frame with an inlay in the middle that floats, you can actually move and wiggle them. They are there to provide a closed structure but do nothing as far a structure. In fact, you can replace this panel on a door with glass if you want and it would not effect the function of the door.<br />If you feel better with a spacer, then rip down a piece of PT lumber to fill the void rather than reducing the size of the 2x4. Make the piece small enough that it is well hidden under the 1x6 siderail.<br /> <br />Czizzi, Thanks very much for the guidance you've offered. You obviously know what your talking about. Once the fence is up I'll post some photos. Of course that is assuming I don't run into more problems along the way !<br /> <br />Put the last screw in yesterday.<br /> <br />Fabulous Job!!! What a beautiful looking fence, you should be quite proud of your accomplishment.<br /> <br />Yeah, that is one beautiful fence - great work!<br /> <br />Hopefully the neighbors will find it agreeable as it affects their view more directly than me. But on the other hand I can finally go in my back yard and not feel like I'm on a stage for them anymore ! And don't get me started on their crazy dog's barking which this fence will hopefully control.<br />On a final note I think this forum (and the people on it) are great !<br /> <br />How about some post caps on that pretty baby? Copper? Wood? That the ONLY minor finishing touch I could see. It looks great as-is though!<br />After seeing the ideas, drawings and photos here, I went out today to get started on mine. I've been hunting a style for ages and this one and drawings just clicked. I've got 17' on the side of the house to do, and I figured I'd give that a shot before tackling the other 140'... next year...<br />I'm going for the true shadowbox fence however (pictured in one of the suggested drawings) and am using 6x6 posts with post caps above the top rail for this section facing the street, otherwise same construction. I went 6x6 for aesthetics, but also because one could be supporting a 4' iron gate (a real iron gate, not this Lowe's and HD microguage crap). I don't need any warping posts. I also believe the 6x6 will allow the supporting 2x4 runners (well, the top one is a 2x6 for added strength and anti-sag), 1x pickets, and 1x facing boards while still leaving the facing board slightly recessed to the face of the post (um, that's 1.5+.75+.75+.75+.75= 5.75). The longer 70' segments on either side of the backyard yard I'll use 4x6 to save $. I also said phooey with toenailing and am going with bracket/hangers for the 2x4-to-post connection. Figure they'll hide easily under the pickets and facing, last longer, and be much stronger to the random kid climbing the fence.<br />Thanks for the great ideas and diagrams to make my imitation of your work so much easier. I'll try to post up some pics once I get finished.<br />Keith<br /> <br />Nice job! Home is the place we should do our best work!<br /> <br />I used deck brackets to hold the horizontal 2X4's to the post. There was another style of bracket that was designed for fences but I decided not to use these because they didn't seem like they were as sturdy as the deck bracket. I need to modify the brackets before I could use them because they had areas that were sticking out for nail openings. I used a vise to squash these areas flat. I'm somewhat concerned that I've caused the zinc coating on the bracket to flake off in the places where I did this squashing in a vise. So the brackets may start to rust in these areas. I guess time will tell.<br />This bracket was designed to have the 2X4's toe nailed into the post. But I didn't want to do toe nailing as it would make it more difficult to take the fence apart and it seemed like overkill. I figure having four 2 1/2 wood screws holding each bracket to the post would be plenty strong as it is. Another benefit is that it will be easier to replace the 2X4 if needed because it will simply slide out.<br />As the photo shows the deck brackets stick out. Another problem is the screws stick out also. But I decided the extra strength of these brackets was worth these negatives. If you have a router than I suppose you could route 1/4 or so from the fence post area where the bracket is mounted to the post and that would recess the bracket so the screws would not stick out. I ended up chiseling and routing out the area where the brackets touched the inside of the 1X6X8' horizontal facing boards. That way the bracket was flush with the surface of the wood. It was a pain to go through this step because I don't really have a 'real' router but a Dremel tool with a router bit. This job was too big for this small of a tool.<br />My design has a flaw because the water will not readily drain out of the cavities along the bottom edge. If you look at the 'another view' photo from my 05-25-08, 11:02 PM post, and turn that upside down, then you'll hopefully see what cavities I'm talking about. If you building a shadowbox design then you shouldn't have this problem because there will be a way for the water to drain out. I've done some tests to see how fast the water does drain out and in the worst case it takes a few minutes for it to seep through and find an exit. Water is the worst enemy of wood so I'm more than a little concerned that this might cause the structural 2X4 in the middle of the sandwich, along on the bottom edge, to go bad. These 2X4s are pressure treated so that should help but only time will tell. But since everything is held together with screws it I can always take the fence apart and replace the bottom 2X4 at some point in the future.<br />I have some post caps which I'm putting on for cosmetic reasons but also because the exposed grain on the top of a post is susceptible to damage over the long term (or so I'm told). So a post cap is protecting the post and hopefully prolonging it's useful life.<br />We did stain/treat the fence this week. It was hard to do because it covered up much of the subtle color variations going from white to brown and red. However I felt like it was the right thing to do because those subtle colors would fade away and turn to gray in a few years anyway. I used the clear Olympic brand 'Maximum waterproofing sealant' product. So now the overall color tone is amber but it still looks nice. And now the appearance should stay the same for much longer than if I just let it go gray.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Xs8HNyUKFf0" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Xs8HNyUKFf0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: build, cedar, fence, avoid, problems, pickets then, post caps, because they, horizontal boards, that will, this fence, wide horizontal, wide horizontal boards, along bottomAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-61160049440075627092014-03-10T20:46:00.007-07:002014-03-10T21:44:04.332-07:00Sealing Basement Walls<br><br />I would like to know the best way to seal our basement walls from water leaks. In the spring and summer we get a lot os drainage into our basement. We are working on finishing the basement for a family room and spare bedrooms. Can you reccomend the best sealers out there for this project?<br />Mrs. Handy<br /> <br />Chevy:<br />I hate to tell you this, but if you get water seepage, you will not be able to seal it 100% from the inside. This will have to be done from the outside. This will not be cheap either. If you would like more information on this project, you can e-mail me. Good Luck<br />------------------<br />Jack the Contractor<br /> <br />Jack is correct. Been there, tried that, then fixed it right. Negative fixes are temporary at best. You need to divert the water before it reaches the inside and that can only be done from the outside. The only efective inside measure is to channel the water once it gets inside. You can't stop it from the inside. I do not care for the channeling.<br /> <br />A small amount of water also seeps into my basement and I would like to seal it from the outside the right way. In my case, the basement is actually the first floor of a 3 story townhouse and is only about 24 inches below street level. The house is only 18 ft wide and only the back is affected, so it should not be a huge issue to excavate down to the foundation. Any suggestions on what sealant products work best on cinderblock, and whether a drainpipe should be installed at the same time?<br /> <br />Home Depot or Lowe's has a product called DryBlock that is good for a water sealant. If you have a problem I would recommend doing a french drain around the house, installing gutters, or re-channelling the down spouts farther away from the house. Good Luck<br /> <br />From what I've seen/read, Drylock is great - but mainly for the inside of your basement. That thick, black tar material is what is recommended for the outside of the walls.<br />FWIW, our house also has moisture problems, but have been greatly minimized via outside landscaping and by installing gutters. Yard all around the house has been tapered to go away from the house, by lowering areas further away, raising areas closer, and then slightly digging swales to move the water where I desire it to go.<br />Altho' the house is only ~3 years old, the builders [the original home-owners, not contractors... ] did not properly put enough of that black gunk upon the outer walls, nor did they landscape too well. What is worse tho' is the useage of concrete block walls... which are slightly buckeling - subject of a different post.<br />We also have a dehumidifier running full-time, along w/ a vent into the air intake of the A/C is also open to suck additional air moisture out. So, it does stay quite pleasant down there.<br />Oh, we tried that cheap Wal-Mart drylock material only on the wall that is on the walkout side, and while it seems so far to be ok, the real mccoy is the only stuff we will use on the main/important walls.<br />Whatever you do use, please use some ventilation, as the fumes are not so friendly.<br /> <br />my basement stays dry, but has lots of moisture. the dehumidifier runs full time and really helps. but i think we still have some mold problems down there as my girlfriend is allergic and is constantly having a reaction since we moved in. the house is 80 yo and has stone walls. i think i will wash them with bleach solution first, but would also like to cover the stone with something less suseptable to mold(fill gaps and minor cracks) and give a more uniform look. any ideas as to what would work best for this?<br /> <br />Most basement moisture issues can be resolved by keeping gutters and downspouts clear to carry away water. Avoid splash blocks because they deposit water too close to foundation. Make sure soil around foundation is sloped to carry water away from structure. Sealing basement walls will prevent vapor emissions from transpiring through concrete and masonry, but it will not address water coming through walls. Digging up around foundation, installing drains, and properly sealing exterior walls tends to solve severe moisture issues. A quality waterproofing paint can be used on interior walls. Most waterproofing paints tend not to adhere to walls that have already been sealed or painted. Running a dehumidifier in basement to reduce humidity levels to 35-55% is important. Mold is likely to grow when humidity is 60% or more. The only way to measure humidity is with a hygrometer, which is sold where thermometers are sold. Running fans in basement will improve air circulation. Avoid opening basement windows which allow moist, humid air to enter basement.<br /> <br />I too have a damp basement and have heard all the ways to keep it dry. Does anyone think that plywood/paneling is better than drywall beacuse it won't hold the water? I'm going to redo the basement and don't know what I should put on the wall. I think if there is a leak drywall should be the last thing on the walls down there. A little help if you can. P.S. what's the cheap dry way to go?<br /> <br />I have a new house in Atlanta and a full basement that will be finished over the next year. Drainage is not a problem with my property. Should I seal the concrete walls, and if so with what product? Obviously, a lot of sealers and coatings are available.<br /> <br />You mentioned in your post that you were adding bedrooms to your basement. Once you figure out keep the basement dry make sure any bedrooms meet local egress code requirements. In a bedroom, there has to be a window (and window well if applicable) that is sized so a person can get out and more improtantly a fire fighter can get in. This is not something to skimp on. Every day kids die in basements with add on bedrooms with no way out.<br />Good luck with your project.<br />DavidJ<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/d5idVJMM6W0" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/d5idVJMM6W0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: sealing, basement, walls, away from, down there, from outside, would like, around foundation, around house, away from house, basement have, basement walls, done fromAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-20599222036318116082014-03-10T20:46:00.006-07:002014-03-10T21:43:52.337-07:00Problem With Peerless Gas Boiler<br><br />I have a cast iron gas boiler circa 1991 that has been running perfectly until yesterday. I routinely (weekly to bi-weekly) check the sight glass, purge rusty water refill w/ clear from the hot-side (refill is off hot water heater) as needed.<br />Life intervened I went about a month w/out checking on the boiler. The site glass was down about 1.5 (nowhere near critical), but it is usually spot on when I'm checking it routinely.<br />In the past I have purged while the furnace is running occasionally, depending upon the amount of purge, it will shut itself off temporarily, and come back on after a short recess. .... Well, not so lucky this time. I didn't notice until this morning, when the house was about 8* below the normal thermostat setting, the boiler never kicked back on after my purge/refill.<br />This morning, following all the directions on the backside of the access plate to bring it all the way down back up (including a full water purge - on the outside chance I had an air-lock), I still have had no luck. The gas is working the pilot is lit, but that's where my inner dummy kicks in.<br />I assume the problem is electrical in nature and related to ignition of the burners but, alas, I'm friggin' clueless<br />Any suggestions /or help is greatly appreciated.<br />Thanks in advance, - Dennis<br /> <br />What model is the boiler, and is your low water cut off a 'float type' or a 'probe type'...?<br /> <br />NJ-<br />thanks for your quic response. re: model, I see no specific model # per se, does this help?:<br />[IMG] 2012-01-27_10-11-39_541 by denwood73, on Flickr[/IMG]<br /> this:<br />[IMG] 2012-01-27_10-12-21_114 by denwood73, on Flickr[/IMG]<br />with regard to the low water cut off, how would I know?<br /> <br />a pic from the business end:<br />[IMG] 2012-01-27_15-48-15_185 by denwood73, on Flickr[/IMG]<br /> <br />I tried going to Flickr to see larger images, but it says I need to be signed in...<br />I'm admittedly not a 'steam-head', asked the questions to try and entice those that know more about steam than I do to jump in...<br />I believe that your unit has a float type LWCO... and that may be the problem... it may not be signaling that the water level is up where it needs to be.<br />Is that rubber jacketed electrical cord wiring the components together? That's a big no-no... and I see loose wires hanging too... that needs a little work.<br />Can you upload the pics to a site that one doesn't have to sign in to in order to see the larger images? Something like Image hosting, free photo sharing video sharing at Photobucket ? Or perhaps somehow set up your Flickr account to allow viewing by 'others' ?<br /> <br />Gonna ask some more questions based on what I see in the pics...<br />What is the setting on the gray 'pressur-trol' box on top of the 'pigtail' on top of the water feeder?<br />It appears that something is leaking onto the top of the water feeder? (rusty spot)... what is that about?<br />(including a full water purge - on the outside chance I had an air-lock)<br />Not really necessary with a steam system... there is no 'water' in the pipes.<br /> <br />My initial thought is that the LWCO is acting up and not making contact.<br />Other possible problems could be that the pigtail siphon tube with the Pressur-Trol on it is clogged. If this happens, the boiler will 'think' there is pressure and the burner won't fire.<br />Additionally, there are a couple safety switches... a 'Flame Rollout Switch' (FRS) and a 'Blocked Vent Switch' (BVS). The FRS is down by the burners, the BVS is on the atmospheric hood on the flue pipe.<br />You should also have an automatic vent damper on the flue pipe. When there is a call for heat, can you tell if the damper is opening? The burner won't fire if the damper doesn't open. DO NOT try to manually turn it if it doesn't open, you WILL damage the motor and gears if you do!<br />Do you own and know use a multimeter? (or maybe a geiger counter? JUST KIDDING!)<br />If you do, I will be referring to this manual... not sure if it's your exact model, but it will be close enough:<br />http://www.peerlessboilers.com/Deskt...hod=attachment<br />The wiring diagram Fig 7-9 or 7-10 will be very close to your system.<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LjZog7qxZSc" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LjZog7qxZSc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: problem, peerless, boiler, denwood73 Flickr, back after, burner fire, chance air-lock, doesn open, float type, flue pipe, full waterAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6299977739926317786.post-12073528700009184292014-03-10T20:46:00.005-07:002014-03-10T21:43:41.275-07:00Microwave Hums Doesn'T Heat <br><br />My GE Spacemaker over-the-counter microwave (JVM132k 004) suddenly started making loud humming noise (on top of other normal sounds that one hears during operation) and no longer heats. Is this toasted? Anything I can do to troubleshoot?<br />The strange thing is that my TV also blew out last night. I had heated food at around 9:30. Watched TV until 10:30. Switched TV off. Turned it on again and could see highly distorted blue and white picture only. And the picture didn't change while changing channels. Then this morning, microwave doesn't work either. Coincidence?<br />If I had to buy a new microwave, what is a good brand to go for? This one lasted for 16 years - not bad for builder's grade stuff.<br />TIA!<br /> <br />Did you have a thunderstorm overnight where a lightening strike might have damaged your TV and microwave? Are your other electronics and appliances working OK?<br />There isn't much to service in a modern microwave. They are pretty much built to be disposable. As far as a good brand, I have a hunch almost all of them are made in China by a handful of companies. Consumer's Reports' last rating of microwave oven reliability indicated that there wasn't generally much difference between brands. They showed Kitchen Aid as the most repair prone and Frigidaire as the least repair prone, but the spread was not huge. For some reason, they did not rate Sharp, which is surprising. For overall performance, they recommended Kenmore, GE, Panasonic, Samsung, LG, and Frigidaire over-the-range models. So it appears about any reputable brand would do the job for you, it just depends on how much you want to spend for the bells and whistles.<br /> <br />No thunderstorm or lightening that I heard or saw.All other appliances, including my computer and printers that were on through the night, seem to be fine.<br />There are threads on Google that mention to check the rectifying diode and HV capacitor. Since I know work with electricity (in particular, capacitors), I opened up the microwave (took the control panel off) to see if I can troubleshoot. Yanked off the diode and tested it using the diode setting on digital multimeter. It seems to be open (multimeter reads no voltage in forward of reverse directions). Now the puzzling part is that I read somewhere the following:<br />Open diode = no humming noise + no heat<br />Shorted diode = humming noise + heat<br />So I am surprised that I am seeing open diode instead of a shorted one (since microwave humms). Or is that my digital vltmeter is unable to test the high voltage diode?<br />In any case, this is a generic diode (HVR 1X 3, 12 KV, 500mA). Appliance parts guys are asking $33-$50 for it. I think that is a rip off markup - this should be not more that $3-$10. Any ideas where I can get these cheap?<br /> <br />Well, it seems my digital multimeter cannot be used for checking the integrity of the diode in a microwave even when used in the diode mode. This because we are dealing with a HV diode, and multimeter just doesn't have enough voltage to do its job. So it is expected to show open even when forward biased. But at least we know it is not shorted (otherwise the reverse bias would not show open). And if I was to trust what I read (humming = shorted diode), I can surmise that my diode is probably fine.<br />So now I took off the capacitor. I measure resistance across the leads, it starts from zero and increases to about 10M ohms. It never shows infinity (or off scale). Is 10 M ohms reading sufficient proof of capacitor being shot? Where can I buy these cheap?<br /> <br />Hmmm, I keep learning more... The capacitor has an internal bleed resistor. Is the 10 Mohm that I am seeing the resistance of that resistor?<br /><center><object width="425" height="350"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Jj2u2n_o7Cw" /><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Jj2u2n_o7Cw" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed><br /></object><br /></center><br /><b>Tags</b>: microwave, doesn, heat, humming noise, digital multimeter, diode humming, diode humming noise, diode humming noise heat, even when, good brand, humming noise heatAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05016370167063250925noreply@blogger.com