I've got a 96 Zenith Inteq big screen projection tv and no one around here will touch it so what I'm going to have to do is do it myself. I found a place to get the service manual now i just need to know what is wrong with it. The picture has compressed from the top left to top right and then the bottom left to the bottom right....looks like this )( only horizontal and every once in a while a picture will come up in there but usually it's black...the )( stripes on there are green, blue, yellow and red....help please i have no idea what i'm doing but willing to figure it out cause i'm out of options. You have a vertical deflection problem. Most of the time this is probably caused by a bad capacitor or maybe a bad connection in the yoke. It maybe cheaper in your time to just replace all the electrolytic caps in the vertical deflection circuitry rather trying to locate the bad one. Money wise it would still only be a few bucks to replace them all. Be very careful as you are dealing with potentially deadly voltages, so if you aren't sure discharge them, maybe you should let somebody else do the work.
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The dryer will spin but wont heat I have replaced the heating element and the thermo fuse I've checked the high limit temperature sensor and the cycle sensor I have continuity on both but the heating element doesn't get hot what else could it be it was working Also I've cleaned everything Welcome to the forums. I moved your post to the electric appliance forums. Have you used a meter and checked for 240vac at the receptacle and inside at the wiring terminal block ? I have check voltage at the plug and have 120v on each leg or 240 across two legs usual reason your dryer won't heat is heater element (replaced) or hi limit thermostat, Thermostat is the one on top of heater case. Use continuity part of meter to check for opens, If open it's bad. Reason thermostat went bad is you need to clean vent to outside. I've checked the high limit thermostat and the cycle on and off thermostat there both good I checked voltage at the outlet and get 240 also checked the fuse on the housing Did you open the junction box on back of dryer to make sure connections are tight and none are burned ? Don't have a diagram for yours but have one for a simular one. The diagram shows 2 other places you might have a problem One is a switch in motor, mine shows a red wire from motor to heater. Have to unplug wire at heater and check for 120 volts there with dryer running. other place is timer. Under console should be a wiring diagram you can check if I have right one. I checked the wire connection at the junction box. every thing was tight and I saw the red wire going to the motor I checked with a ohm meter and had continuity from the other side of the switch to were the red wire connects at the heating element I'll double check the voltage but I don't think that's it I didn't check the timer wire as I didn't know what the other side was The timer dose run the element burned out tripped the breaker and hasn't heated since but blower and motor work? It's my ex wife's mothers dryer I try to help her as best I can.
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I've got a big shed that is partially insulated. If you put a hose in the shed it won't freeze solid, but some chunks of ice will form in the hose. I've got one of more expensive electric pressure washers, and so far it works great. I'd like to keep it in my shed over the winter. Can someone suggest an antifreeze I could add to the detergent tank? In my part of the country there are many winter days that are well above freezing. When you've got three cars to keep clean a pressure washer is really the only way to remove road salt and grime. I think Home Depot sells a product that is suppose to prevent ice buildup in your pressure washer. That's great if you plan to store your pressure washer for the entire winter without using it. I would be more concerned with damaging the pump and bypass mechanism by having the water contained in it than the soap tank. If kept in freezing temperatures you would need use camper antifreeze to flush the pump until anti-freeze comes out of the nozzle. Once the antifreeze comes out of the nozzle you would let go of the trigger and add antifreeze untill the pressure builds and the unloader kicks in. This will clear water from the unloader area. You need to use non-toxic recreational vehicle antifreeze that is alcohol based rather than automotive type. You can make up a short garden hose to be able to pour antifreeze directly into the running washer. Make sure you do not run it for extended periods without water or antifreeze in it as it could overheat the pump. As far as the soap tank goes you could add methyl hydrate to it but have to make sure it the soap system can handle alcohol. My way of thinking is it may be less trouble to bring it indoors. Or you could set a Pelonis ceramic heater next to it plugged into a Thermoblock. On at 35, off at 42 or so. Maybe because I live in the south but I never realized you were supposed to winterize a pressure washer until reading about it in these forums. What I have always done [and had no problems] is to remove the hose from the pump and let all the water drain out and tip the pump slightly to drain it also. I store my PW in the barn and we do get many winter nights that are around 20 degrees. Thank you GregH, chandler, and marksr. Until the age of ten or eleven my family lived in a small, mostly rural town. I remember watching folks pour alcohol into their radiators. It may have been methanol, I'm not really sure. The last thing you said GregH, about bringing the washer indoors is the first thing I thought of. Most electric washers are small enough to fit in a closet and don't weigh very much. They also tend to fail very rapidly! I purchased mine through a business contact. He got me an industrial quality unit at cost. Companies like Northern Tools sell contractor or industrial grade electric washers. That's the kind I have. Anyway, if I can find someplace to put the darn thing I'll bring it indoors. I have a Karcher electric 10 yrs old,always put in the basement for winter and it still works great. Mike Hi Rewinder (et al), I have a similar problem - in the North of England our winters can get pretty cold, so I have looked into this quite extensively. I have attached a link that I first found a couple of years ago (I checked this morning and it's still active), which has been my Autumn Bible when it comes to preparing my pressure washer of the winter. It is Delco's hints for industrial contract cleaners for their pressure washers...what's good enough for them is sure as hell good enough for me! Check this out... http://www.dcs1.com/del/weather.html All the best John
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I went to Home Depot to get some estimates for repacing my single-pane aluminum windows with new vinyl windows. They showed me a product from Windowmaster Products, called EZ Frame. In a nutshell, you remove the old wondows from your frame, but leave the aluminum frames (rails). The new window slides in this reduced opening, and is screwed through the aluminum frame into the studs. Vinyl or wood trim when finishes up the inside. Basically, a 4'x4' double-pane sound-insulated, sliging window with grids is window is about $250. A little expensive, but almost no labor to install. A comparable non-retro window was about $150, but the labor or time would easily exceed a couple of hundred dollars. My outside stucco would have to be smoothed down to accomodate the fit, but it sounds TOO good to be true. Does anyone have any experience with this retrofit idea? Brian: I just answered the e-mail you sent me. yes, these are the windows I was talking about. Good Luck ------------------ Jack the Contractor That's exactly how we retro fit windows all the time. As far as having to smooth the stucco, that's generally not a problem either. A generous bead of 100% silicon caulking applied before installing the new window, and a finished bead where the stucco and vinyl meet are usually all that's needed to seal in the new windows.
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I have a Moen Control faucet in my bathroom that is going bad. Pulling the faucet on is no problem but when I push it off I have to use a little force and twist the knob back and forth. I believe the Moen faucet I have has a cartridge that can be replaced rather than the entire faucet, which would be quite costly. A friend of mine said these type of faucets were very popular in apartment buildings back in the 1990's. The chrome escutcheon (face plate) has screws in the 5 and 7 o'clock position. My guess is that the faucet is around 15 years old. I tried Moen's Faucet Selector on their web site but it doesn't list my type of faucet with the escutcheon screws in the 5 7 positions, only the ones in the 2 7 positions. So I couldn't gather any infor there. Unfortunately I can't identify the faucet because there is no access panel in the wall behind the faucet. My neighbor will be helping me cut an access panel (I don't have the tools) but that's when he has time, and that won't be soon. I've attached pictures I took with my old Sony camcorder because my Canon digital camera went bad. There's no serial number when looking at the faucet from the front but if I can just have the faucet model identified it would be helpful. An exploded-view PDF would really be great. Any help is greatly appreciated. Below are the pictures. Its a regular Moentrol. 1225B cartridge. Did you remove the clip and or cartridge already? I dont see no clip there. If you have the water on the cartridge can shoot out at you and cause injury. Make sure you put the clip back in. This is the most popular moen cartridge. If you just do a moen cartridge search, this is the most common item to come up Get at any homestore. Yours may be the original brass cartridge. The plastic one is the same. Mike NJ Also...looks like yours has shutoffs for the hot and cold (the slot heads on the left and right)...that might make it easier to replace if they still turn, otherwise, you'll need to shut off the main supply somewhere. Many of the carts require a puller or a bit of innovation to get out. You can contact Moen directly on there 800 service line and they will send you one for free. All they asked me was what position the screw holes were and sent me one next day air at no cost. They may just ask you to email a picture of what you have. Most better larger companys offer a life time warrenty on the parts for there faucets. Originally Posted by lawrosa Its a regular Moentrol. 1225B cartridge. Did you remove the clip and or cartridge already? I dont see no clip there. If you have the water on the cartridge can shoot out at you and cause injury. Make sure you put the clip back in. This is the most popular moen cartridge. If you just do a moen cartridge search, this is the most common item to come up Get at any homestore. Yours may be the original brass cartridge. The plastic one is the same. Mike NJ The Moen faucet I have looks to have only one retainer clip, the one with the hole on top (as in your picture), but I think you're right correct about the cartridge model. Do you know if the cartridge can be replaced without having access to the back of the faucet? If so, then I may not need to cut an access panel. They show two clips in the pic but only one is used. Depends on which version. Yes you replace from the front. I guess you could not get it out. Since there is no clip I figured you removed it and tried to pull it out. If the waters off and the clip is out(from your pic) grab the stem with plyers and pull it out. If it dont come out they have a little plastic tool with the new catridge that alows you to turn the hole cartridge to loosen it. Some of them are buggers to remove. Mike NJ
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Hello, I am having one heck of a time trying to get my one toilet tank bolt from not leaking! Only one leaks, other is fine. I have torn the tank off 5 times now. I had the tank off to make more room for the remodeling I was doing. Neighbor who helped me put the tank on originally said he couldn't figure out why it was leaking either! He said he had never had a problem with one, ever! He said he had probably installed 100 toilets over the years and had never had that problem! He suggested maybe I put some blue silicone gasket maker on the rubber and see what happens. Any opinions, advice are always appreciated!! Thanks, Jack Assuming you are using new bolts/gaskets the first thing you want to do is make sure that there isn't a hairline crack around the bolt hole.If there is you'll never get it to not leak and you need a new tank. Adding gasket maker/sealant etc is an idea as long as fresh parts aren't doing the job. This is also assuming that the tank is level and the bolts aren't unequally tightened.Also if you are using an old or incorrect tank to bowl gasket that could throw off things. I have seen lots of them leak. Usually because there was only one set of nuts, the ones holding the tank on the bowl. My remedy was do like many old time tanks and put a set of nuts directly on the outside of the bottom of the tank. Then use a second set to hold the tank to the toilet bowel. Are you installing metal washers inside the tank? Originally Posted by ray2047 I have seen lots of them leak. Usually because there was only one set of nuts, the ones holding the tank on the bowl. My remedy was do like many old time tanks and put a set of nuts directly on the outside of the bottom of the tank. Then use a second set to hold the tank to the toilet bowel. The original builder used one set of nuts on all of the tanks in my house and they seem to seal this way forever until you remove the tank and then you can never get them to seal. Only way i figured it out was by buying a new set and following the instructions. SOB builders must save a mint on all those nuts! Thanks everyone! I tried once again with no success! I bought a brand new bolt kit and reinstalled them using the blue gasket maker silicone. I used the 2 bolts with the metal washer, followed by the rubber. Put gasket maker around the rubber and seated the rubbers to the bottom of the tank. I then put the same rubber, metal nut combo on the bottom. Tightened the wingnut as equally as I could and waited 24 hours. Tried today and it still leaks! I have taken the tank off about 3 times but I may have to again to check for cracks around the bolts. I know the toilet isn't the most level, but it had sealed before. Only thing I did when I remodeled was to add 1/8 inch tile board behind the toilet. Neighbor guy said maybe the 1/8 inch I added may have pushed the toilet forward and that may be what's causing my problem? Thanks again! Jack Jack, Just to make sure we are on the same page the HW should be assembled as follows: Bolt Metal washer rubber washer tank rubber washer metal washer nut - tighten this nut independently from wingnut toliet base nut or wing nut With this arrangement the wingnut has little if any effect on sealing. In fact if you over tighten the wingnut you may negate the effect of the second nut. My toliet base even has a recess for the second nut. Again for some reason contractors will omit the intermediate nut which seems to work when the unit is new. I went through the same rigamarou as you did until I installed the center nut. Apologies if you are already doing this but I don't see how it could leak if the center nut is tight and the wing nut is just snug. The rubber washers must be tight on the bolt shaft also so water can not run down the bolt shaft. This is also why it's a good reason to get all new HW that is made to work together. I'm going mostly from memory here but that's what mine looks like. I have a Mansfield toliet. I suppose you could even run an experiment with the tank off the toliet and check for leaks. I may have the bolts on wrong! I'll check them and see! Thanks again! Jack I put the bolts on right this time, although it's still leaking! What's odd is it seems to leak more when you flush the toilet. Like it leaks more as water is entering and exiting. When the water is just sitting idle in the tank it hardly leaks at all. I looked it over again for cracks and couldn't find any. I'm about to say, screw it and buy a new toilet! Any advice, opinions, are always welcome! Thanks! Jack I had a similar problem and it was my fault. I was putting the metal washer under the brass bolt head and that created the leak. The rubber must go against the brass head to seal against leaks down the treads of the bolt along with sealing against the tank wall. (No metal washer) goes inside the tank anywhere in this repair. That right off the box of a ACE hardware kit. Good luck.. Larry Correct. No metal washers inside the tank. This isn't a tank bolt problem anyway; when he described that leaks more when you flush it ...it means that it describes the tank to bowl spud gasket is either misaligned, deteriorated or not the right one for the toilet. You need to get the OEM gasket to correct this problem. I have done a few hundred of these in my life and the only time I suffered brain damage was about 10 yrs ago with a Gerber closet. I only recall that you MUST have the OEM donut. There are probably some other brands that require this also. I do think the tank to bowl gasket is your problem since it leaks more when flushed. Thanks all! I believe and hope your right! I put on a new donut gasket today and last I knew I only saw a drop or 2 on the floor. I thought that also might be the problem as the donut gasket looked pretty rough! Also, someone had put silicone all around it at one time. So, I scraped all that off and replaced the gasket. Flushed the toilet about 6 times and no leaks. I do have another question. This house I'm working on is one I inherited and grew up in. My question is: How come some toilets sweat a lot and some seem to not sweat at all? The one at the house I'm working on has always sweated a lot! Any ideas? Thanks! Jack Sweating is due to cold water in the tank and warm humid air in the room. Lots of times the closer to the water supply, the water will be colder, so the tank sweats. The ones at the other end of the house or upstairs have time to warm the water as it travels through the pipes (or has been sitting in the pipes) so it comes in the tank warm or ambient..no sweating occurs. Also, many times the tank in a 1/2 bath won't sweat, but the full bath will. Someone needs to take shorter showers and run the exhaust fan longer..lol. Thx 4 taking the time to give ppl advice. It's because if this advice I went back to the toilet with success. It turns out my toilet was only leaking when flushed. I secured the bolt with and without the metal Washer as a test. It seemed the bolts were leaking when I sat it on the toilet so because u guys said the water was coming from the gasket, I checked it. Turns out the tank wasn't situated on the toilet straight or in my case crooked. After turning the tank a little the leaking stopped. My tank can't be straight. It must be slanted to keep my casket from leaking. And here I thought the water was coming from the bolts. Thx everyone for posting this stuff. I hope mine helps someone else. Kay. I realize this thread is old however, it was able to help me with a problem I have stressed about for months. Thank you ALL for your input! It was the discussion itself that led me to resolve my leaking toilet tank problem. In a nutshell... Had to go in and replace fill valve, did that problem fixed however isn't this sometimes the case. Fix one thing and another thing comes up. While replacing the fill valve figured I would replace the nasty looking bolts and washers that attach the fill tank to the toilet bowl itself. All brand new hardware, rr and now one of the three bolts is leaking water. Brand new washers, prepped the area properly and still it leaks. Well, in the end after reading this post I saw where someone had mentioned that there is to be NO metal washers in the tank(above the rubber gasket). I would have sworn (but wouldn't bet my life on it) that the old hardware I removed had metal washers and that is why I included them thinking they were needed. However two out of the three are not leaking so as the saying goes... if it ain't broke, don't mess with it. I removed the one metal washer and done, NO MORE LEAKING! YES!! Ok, so not exactly in a nutshell...lol Thanks again!!! Glad some of our older posts help with problems, and glad you are reading them. Let us know if we can help further. Sorry to revive an old thread again, but just wanted to thank the members here as it solved my problem as well. Toilet was running, so I bought a new flush valve assembly and the toilet began leaking from the back when flushed. I returned that kit and bought one to replace everything on the inside and I got it so it was leaking out of only one bolt.I have a Gerber toilet and reading this thread made me try everything with the old sponge gasket. It didn't feel like it fit right at all, but once I added the middle washer and nut back into the assembly and tightened everything it looks and works like a charm. Thanks to everyone (especially Dunbar Plumber and Handyman663) for saving me a call to the plumber! The best way to seal the hold down bolts at the base of the toilet tank is to coat the inside rubber washer with plumbers pipe dope and the rubber washer on the outside of the tank with latex caulk. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten the bolts to the tank with hex nuts. I use a slotted screwdriver from the inside of the tank. A little bit past hand tight should be sufficient- be careful not to over-tighten as you risk cracking the tank. Put the tank aside for 30-60 min, to give the pipe dope and caulk a chance to set. Re-install the tank on the toilet. Thread ran its course..... Closed. Please start new thread with similar issues.
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My tankless water heater started acting up a couple of months ago and sometimes would not heat the water to warm. But in the last 2 weeks lukewarm is the hottest that it gets. Bosch is not helpful. So I have checked and cleaned the pilot....but the pilot is fine and oddly enough the burners fire but they just don't heat the water much. It is flow controlled and the knob to adjust the flow also adjusts the heat. I've noticed that even with the heat all of the way up, the pressure at the bathroom sink is exactly the same as with the heat all of the way down. So if it is flow controlled then with the heat all of the way up I should have at least a change in pressure. Considering how much it costs for replacement parts it is imperative that I figure it out before I just start replacing things. There has got to be a reason that with the burners firing it is not heating past lukewarm? There has been no change in anything in the home such as plumbing or appliances. It is a gas heater and there has been no change in how my gas furnace or range work so I'm sure it isn't related to gas. I'm stumped! Any suggestions? The only responses I seem to get are about the product itself and how people feel about that particular company which doesn't help me at all! Thanks! Let us know if you still need assistance...... Joe, did you get the 125B working up to temp? If so, let me know what you found wrong, as mine has also been experiencing a decrease in max temperature. I am on city water, and took the heat exchanger off this morning and poured white vinegar into it, letting it soak for 30 minutes. I did not see any scale, which is what I expected since the city water is good. Next, I removed and disassembled the water valve. The inline screen water filter was deteriorated, leaving only the plastic frame. Examining the water valve, I found only a bit of corrosion on the upper pin. What I did find was a small pebble lodged in the venturi, which would normally have been caught by the screen filter. Upon reassembly, I found that the flame height is only about 2 at max heat and water flow, whereas it had been only about 1.5 with the pebble clogging the venturi. The burner will not come on until a flow rate of one quart in 20 seconds in reached. The specs say it should come on at the lower rate on one quart in 30 seconds. The water at full flow seems to be getting somewhat hotter, but not enough to scald anyone. It appears to me that the water valve is designed to increase the gas flow at full water demand. The ground temperature of the water here in winter is about 50 degrees F. Does anyone know what the flame height should be in these natural gas tankless water heaters? The Bosch 125B is rated at 117,000 Btu max. Chuck Now, after a couple of days of use after taking the pebble out of the water valve venturi and lubricating the push rod, my Bosch Aquastar 125B is working good again. I think that if anyone has fluctuating temperatures out of their tankless water heater, it would be good to have a look at the water valve. My instruction manual states that the water valve needs to be cleaned and lubricated every two years, and the water valve possibly replaced every five years. My heater has been in continuous use for 10-12 years now, and I finally had a problem. The water valve is easy to clean and lubricate. However, to get a hotter stream of water in a quicker manner in winter, I am going to install a small 7 gallon Ariston 120v electric water heater immediately downstream from my Aquastar. My tankless heater will feed water directly into the electric heater. My goal is hotter water, more quickly. What do you propose that 7 gallon wh is going to do for you? You are feeding it hot water, so it will never come on. By the time the demand is made, it won't make any difference because the tankless will have ignited. Ever thought about a recirculator?? The tank acts as a buffer so you don't get the sandwich effect. The electric is no hooked up.... One of the drawbacks of tankless heaters is that there is a delay in the hot water getting to the point of use, which is caused by the time it takes for the tankless heater to heat up the heat exchanger. The small tank heater will get heated water from the tankless heater, and heat it further. Mostly though, it will sit there with a 7 gallon capacity of hot water ready to go directly to a faucet, which will result in having hot water much faster. In addition, with the two paired together, I keep my endless supply intact. The Ariston will be hooked up to a 120v source. I will be hooking up the system today and will let you all know if it lives up to my expectations. Chuck I am happy to report that the addition of the 7-gallon Ariston electric tank downstream of the Bosch Aquastar 125B met all of my expectations. I now get hot water in half the time, and it is much hotter. I wish that I had done this 10 years ago. The entire installation of the Ariston took me 8 hours, which included parts shopping, fitting copper tubing, electrical connection, etc. I put the Ariston on the wall directly below the Bosch, keeping the new tank off the floor about 10 inches to make it easy to sweep under. My mistake was putting it a little too close to the bottom of the Bosch, which caused some interference between the new tank lines and the Bosch water valve. The Bosch Aquastar 125 series is a fine unit, but it has a limited flow-through capacity, making it useful for only one faucet at a time, especially in winter when the ground water is cold. Most people would spend $1,000.00-$1,600.00 for a larger tankless heater to get greater capacity. I spent about $240.00 for the Ariston tank and needed fittings, getting hotter water in the process. Having both units creates an ideal combination, IMHO. I also wondered where to easily get a new inline water filter for my Bosch, since the old one had completely fallen apart. I looked at inline screens at the store and saw a packet of 3 SS screens that are usually placed into the end of a garden hose. The cost was $1.49, so I took a chance. One of the new screens with rubber surround fit right on the end of the water valve inlet, and the Bosch nut went right over and sealed down tight. End of search, and I have 2 extras. Happy plumbing, Chuck I think that all tankless water heaters have some sort of gas control valve that is water flow actuated. My Bosch Aquastar 125 is designed in that manner. The control valve has a diaphragm inside that moves under water pressure and flow, opening up the gas as more water flows through the valve. My problem is that there was a small pebble in the control valve venturi, with the result that the diaphragm would not rise enough. The water was lukewarm. In addition to examining the gas control valve for an obstruction in the water flow, you may also want to boil out the heat exchanger with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water. If you are on well water, minerals will build up in the heat exchanger, but they can be removed by boiling. The Bosch site suggests removing and boiling out the heat exchanger every couple of years if there are minerals in your water. Since I am on city water, my heat exchanger was clean after 10 years of use. As far as quantity of hot water through the unit, there is an upper limit due to overall design of the tankless heater. The heater itself does not regulate the quantity of water flow. What is regulated is the gas flow to the burner. It will not come on until the heater detects water flow through the gas control valve. The more water flow, the greater the diaphragm movement and the more gas and heat goes to the heat exchanger. Hope that this assists others in getting their tankless heaters working again. Regards, Chuck
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I am installing Brazilian cherry and am looking for a matching color to stain my moldings. I could'nt get the same wood for the accessories and so I have to get an unfinished wood and stain it to the natural color of BC wood. I would need T-Moldings, Reducers and Probably shoe moldings.... I got one opinion that I could use 'Red Oak' stain which would get close in color to the BC color.... Can someone look into this and help ???? Thanks a lot.........sun1974 Brazilian Cherry has as wide range of colors. Matching a color may be a challenge because of this. There will tend to be no two boards of exactly the same color. Too, Brazilian Cherry tends to darken as it ages and is exposed to light. Some boards will darken to almost a blood red color. Not all boards are the same color. What is important is that you note that trim pieces, even in the same wood species, tend not to be an exact match. Trim pieces should complement the floor. There are flooring companies that offer Brazilian Cherry trim pieces such as T-molds reducers. Finding baseboards shoe mold may be a little more challenging. You can do an online search for these. One option is to take several pieces of Brazilian Cherry to your local paint shop and a few pieces of oak and try to have some stains mixed to complement the flooring. Because red oak has such a close graining pattern, which Brazilian Cherry does not, you might also want to experiment with stains on maple. Cherry stain on maple appears to be very complementary to Brazilian Cherry. Sun1974, I had the same problem as you. I found the widest variety and lowest cost of Brazilian Cherry trim through this web site: http://www.onlinefloorstore.com/store/mfgline/?id=174 Not sure if you need finished or unfinished. The prices quoted are for unfinished pieces, but I called them direct (on the contact us link) and got pre-finished pieces for about 50% more depending on the piece. They had to contact the manufacurer in Canada to get an exact quote and the minimum number of pieces I had to buy. This was still significantly cheaper than other web sites and they had all the different types of pieces I needed. The pre-finished pieces also matched my pre-finished floor so I didn't have to worry about color mismatch, especially as the Brazillian Cherry darkens with exposure. Check the DIY home page for an advertisement and link to one of DIY's sponsors www.fastfloors.com You can also do additional online searches for other companies who offer hardwood flooring trim pieces.
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Is the water abnormally HOT???? 3. Combustion Shutoff Device Tripped.( possible resets itself) There is another feature that is a one time use item, but you would not be able to relight. #3 is a door that closes to not allow air in the combustion chamber. These HWH are not homeowner friendly. With this new technology installing in a dusty enviroment, like by a dryer often causes issues such as this. I suggest you call Rudd and get a tech to look at it. I could tell you take the burner apart but I advise against it. These are sealed chambers and need to be assembled correctly for saftey reasons. Mike NJ I have an ao smith GVR 50 water heater, 5 years old, pilot will not stay lit. Cleaned intake screen, still won't stay lit. What is next? Next step is usually to replace the thermocouple. If your pilot is bathing the thermocouple in flame, and the pilot goes out when you release the start button or turn the dial from pilot to normal run, the thermocouple probably needs replacing. I have an ao smith GVR 50 water heater, 5 years old, pilot will not stay lit. Cleaned intake screen, still won't stay lit. What is next? What is the series # of the unit? These have FVIR technology. The t couplers are part of a whole burner assembly. If you can give me the serial # I can check for you. I was a AO Smith rep. Mike NJ I had an issue where the pilot would not turn on under any condition. I replaced the thermocouple assembly and gas valve (thermostat) so now the pilot will light and stay on until I move the selector from pilot to on, but once the water in the tank is hot the burner and pilot extinguish completely. The following day I had to do the same thing. Is there a setting or gap on the thermocouple or anything I missed? What is the make and model heater? What is the serial #. Mike NJ I believe it is a AO-GCV50 (Promax 50 gallon residential). The gas valve part number was 182791-006 is now 9000249005. I replaced it and the thermocouple assembly. I appreciate your help! I am not home at the moment, but I can take a lunch to get the serial number if you need it. what year is it do you think? This way I know what FVIR technology it has. Mike NJ The year of the model is 2005 Just verify series 100 correct? It has a corderite disk and it need cleaning if so but I want to make sure. Is the unit by a dryer or furnace? Mike NJ Yes, it is the 100 series. I replaced the gas valve with the 200 series per the vendor because the 100 had too many problems. The unit is in my garage in an elevated area specifically built for the water heater. I have no other appliances or fuels stored near it. I have enough clearance to walk to and from it and the garage is ventilated (although no breeze comes through). I am not familiar with the corderite disk. Is this the same as the ceramic flame arrestor that is part of the FVIR? If so, it would make sense for me to remove the thermocouple assembly again and find a way to clean the area out. Are there specific cleaing instruction for this unit? The gas valve thermostat came with a very wide filter that I have no idea or even where to install. I looked inside the chamber to see if it had one so I'd get a clue, but I didn't see anything like it. I am confident enough to do the work, but I just need some instruction. Thanks again! On the bottom of the water heater there is a black lint screen. remove this and get a bright flashlight. Look in the slots and look up on the under side. There is the disk. Air comes in and goes through there for the burner. Does it look like a layer of lint is there? Let me know and I will instruct you further. By the way its not the t couple. There is a high temp thermistor that is in line with the t couple. If you changed the t couple with a stote bought one then you put yourself at risk. When these units starve for air it affects the draft and CO poisoning can occur. Basically you can be dead. These devices reset when the heater cools down below 180C-210C. But it trips for a reason. I advise to to shut the unit down if you have done this. You have by-passed a saftey feature. Let me know. Mike NJ I purchased the entire t couple assembly at an authorized AO Smith dealer (Ferguson Enterprise), not a hardware store. It is the PSW12204 pilot assembly if that means anything to you. I just checked the black air intake lint screen which was surprisingly clean, but I removed a little surface dust. I will inspect and clean the radiation shield and flame arrestor in the near future. I'm missing the flexible brush that was supposed to come with the unit, but I will vacuum inside if I can. I believe I have a FVIR type C3 by the way. Let me know I will be here for another hour or so. What does it say on the tag on the orange wire from the igniter? Mike NJ The one I removed says 180○C 183828-180 760-312. New one says 200○C 183824-200 760-312 New one says 200○C OK good. Thats the ungraded pilot assembly AO smith new there was a issue so they raised the temp on the thermistor. If you have your old assembly, its that little round fuse thing in line with the t couple. OK if you looked in the air vent and up, you probably seen a thin or thick layer of dust? You need to vacuum that. How do you do that you ask? What I do is get 2 ft of 1/2 copper. Put a ellbow on the end. Get your shop vac and insert the copper end in the vac hose and duct tape it good. What you made is a vac tool. Turn on the vac, and make sure you got good suction from the ellbow. Stick it in the air vent, get the ellbow facing up and vacuum that disk real good. Its about 10 round and you should feel the edge as you vacuum. Let me know. Here is some good stuff for ya. They say use a brush but I find a vacuum works better. http://www.hotwater.com/lit/fvirtechbulletin.pdf Mike NJ I was able to get in there a little with a vac, but not nearly as well as I wanted. It appeared to be fairly clean as I found a long delicate brush to gently go over it with, but I want to do a better job with the vacuum. I reassembled everything I think better than before then relit the pilot and it stayed on with no problem. As I adjusted the temperature to warmer temps (between B C) the burner finally kicked on. I am going to have to wait to see if this did the trick for now. I will check in with you tomorrow or the following day. I am definitely going to build myself one of your vacuum tools. Did you ever try using PVC? I'm asking because it's more readily available on this side of the planet. Mike, you are a great help and amazingly creative! I'll talk to you in a few days kind sir. I am definitely going to build myself one of your vacuum tools. Did you ever try using PVC? I usually use 3/4 copper but you need to cut the ellbow so it will fit when you turn it up to vacuum the under side of the disk. You will see what I mean when you do it. I was going to make a tool and patent it, but AO smith stopped making this series. Its a 200/201 series now with different technology. What happens is that disk gets clogged and the burner starves for air. The unit does not draft and the flame starts burner down towards the air. It gets close to the thermister that trips at 200C. This shuts the gas off. When it cools down you will be able to re-lite the unit but it will keep happening until you fix the air issue. AO smith use to have the only resettable thermister. They have a button on the front by the burner window now. The other companys had a fusible link in the t couple. Once they tripped you would need a whole new pilot assembly every time. These where home store models. AO smith is ahead of everyone and most adapt the technology from them. Mike NJ You should still patent it.. I'd still buy one. I understand your articulate explanation and appreciate your patience and willingness to teach. Interesting history behind the technology. Today I took the hottest shower in quite a long, long time. I think the issue is resolved because I can turn the thermostat down and I can hear the roaring flame stop and then start up again when I turn it up again. It wasn't doing that before. I would have to relight it. I am still going to clean it in a week or so. I'll see if I can find 3/4 copper tubing this weekend. I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate your help! Thank you. Your welcome. Glad I can help. Mike NJ I have AO Smith Promax 40(gallon) 100(series) and I ran into the same problem with the pilot light being blown out when the unit turns on itself to heat the water. I hear a loud poof noise and then the pilot light is out, as if being blown out forcefully. It all happened when a guest is trying to use my upstairs bathroom tonight and there is no hot water upstairs (I don't know how long it has been that way since we rarely go upstairs ourselves). I went to check on the water heater unit in my garage that feeds upstairs and saw the pilot light is not lit. I followed the instructions on the water heater and lit the pilot, it came on fine and started to heat the water. I left it like that and waited half an hour, there is hot water upstairs! Went back to the water heater to replace the cover on the bottom, and saw the pilot light is out again. I re-lit the pilot following the instructions, I guess since the water is still hot so I did not hear the sudden rush of gas and the pilot light stayed on. I waited there for about 5-10 minutes to see if the water heater will start heating itself once the water cools down a little. And when it did you can hear the loud hoosh of gas or fire going up inside the unit like its about the do some major 'heating', but the pilot light goes out quickly like being blown out (with a poof sound) and everything goes quiet. I waited a few minutes and re-lit the pilot a third time. Its been an hour now and the pilot light is still lit... I wonder if this is going to happen again? I am definitely interested to check tomorrow morning to see if the pilot is still lit. If it is out again, should I shut off gas to the unit and call for service? Is this a defective part issue? Malfunctioning? Or needs to be cleaned? Your input is greatly appreciated! Your pilot lights and your burner flames up so it seems like it may be the same type of issue of just having to clean the unit. I'm not an expert so I'll see what a second opinion or expert would say. I wonder if this is going to happen again? I am definitely interested to check tomorrow morning to see if the pilot is still lit. If it is out again, should I shut off gas to the unit and call for service? Is this a defective part issue? Malfunctioning? Or needs to be cleaned? Read my posts below. #13 and up. Also the link I posted. The disk is clogged and the unit is starving for air. It trips a thermister when the burner is on, because the flame rolls down looking for air and overheats the thermister. Make a tool and vacuum the underside of the disk as I described. If you call a professional they most likely will want to sell you a new heater. Most plumbers (service techs) dont know about the new technology and have no clue on troubleshoot or repair them. Most are parts changers and they get paid by the revenue they produce. So to come in your home and vacuum your heater is not what a typical tech will offer. It makes no money. This is why I am not in the trade any longer. Cant rip people off in the tuff economy. Mike NJ Hi Mike, Thanks for all of your good info. I have an aosmith promax xclv 30 100. pilot wont stay lit, tried cleaning arrestor holes to no avail, have had plumber in twice, he's apparently not online saavy and i feel like i've done so much research on this problem over the 3 weeks i've not had hot water that i know more about the thing than he does.,., ANYway, i'm looking to see if its ok to just remove the glass window from the sealed chamber to allow more air flow. is the sealed chamber a safety measure keeping flame in/combustion air out in case of outside vapors? i keep nothing vaporous/flamable around the unit. I know the stupid thing works, i can get it to stay lit intermittently and its only 6 yrs old,,,, i have an older model, w/o the fvir sys, in another home and it still works fine,,,,,, i feel like i just want to open the sealed chamber so it will work like the older models... is this thinking correct? I am not a plumber but am frustrated to have to replace the whole unit when i see it working from time to time Hi. Thats a 10 yr water heater. You should not have to fix anything regarding parts or tank. You only need to pay labor. 1. If the pilot does not stay lit you need a pilot assembly. Its covered under warranty, and you pay labor. Should be around $99. 2. If the pilot light goes out sporatically, but you are able to light it, it a clogged disk most likely. Read my posts below. tried cleaning arrestor holes to no avail, Did you read my links below??? Arrestor holes? Its a ceramic disk. If you take the black lint screen off from the bottom of the heater, then lay your head real low on the floor and look up in the lint screen opening. See a layer of dust? That needs to be vacuumed. You need to make a tool to get in there. AO smith should change the pilot assembly anyway since they went from a 180celcius thermistor to a 200c. And the guy that comes out should know all this. Look at the tag on the orange wire. Whats it say? 180c, 190c, 200c? But if you call AO smith, they will give you the correct plumber to call in your area that repairs them under warranty, and should know clean the disk. You cant just use a plumber off the street. Open this link and click on the top where it says heater info. Put in your info then call AO smith. This is for ao smith, state, etc... ( any ao smith product ) https://warranty.hotwater.com/default.aspx ANYway, i'm looking to see if its ok to just remove the glass window from the sealed chamber to allow more air flow. is the sealed chamber a safety measure keeping flame in/combustion air out in case of outside vapors? i keep nothing vaporous/flamable around the unit. I know the stupid thing works, i can get it to stay lit intermittently and its only 6 yrs old,,,, No, no, no. Do not by-pass any saftey device. I was a rep for AO smith. Mike NJ Um i'm sorry that seemingly based on my post youre assuming I havnt read up or performed any of what you suggested. I mentioned in my post that I cleaned the ceramic flame arrestor holes. Cleaned it according to the vid sent to me by aosmith: Standard Gas Control Water Heaters - Filter Cleaning ">
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Hello all, Has anyone ever used a one man post hole auger? If so, can you tell me your experience with them? I am looking at buying the Ardisam earthquake 9000 series. I prefer not to rent as I will be using this auger for many projects throughout the next 5 years. I am in pretty good shape, but by no means, I would say I feel like I am in my 20's again. Will I be able to handle the auger without killing myself? Secondly, I will be using the auger to dig 4X4 post holes. What size bit should I use, a 6, 8, or 10 bit? Thank you, Boomer2 A lot will depend on the soil in your area - sandy, clay, black dirt, rocky, etc. The harder/rockier the soil the harder it will be using the auger. I've used a 1-man several times in sand/dirt type soils and you'll survive but feel it. If the soil is real rocky or heavy clay you'll be looking for friends to come take turns real quick. Not sure what size would be best depends on how much concrete you want to put around the post - probably 8-10. I'd recommend 10. It gives you more room to make minor adjustments when aligning the posts. I suppose if you were on level ground and were very careful drilling, you could get away with 8. But on sloped ground, I found I had better luck with the 10 holes I drilled. I rented something called a little beaver - it was a one-man auger where the engine was on a rolling base. It was still physically challenging. I also think if you get an auger with hydraulics you are better off. That way you have a reverse gear. The one we rented did not - when we wrapped around a root I had to use a pipe wrench to back it off. Good luck, Gerry Thank you both for the tips. I looked at the little beaver and it was pretty pricey. The Ardisam seems like the best deal going. I will be digging in heavy clay but the ground has very little rock. Since my land is flat, I think I will try and start off with an 8 auger bit. If anyone else has any experience pr tips with a one man auger please let me know. Boomer2 It might be worth it to rent one for an hour or find a place that will let you return it. With heavy clay you might find a one man auger a lot of work. I used a one-man hydraulic auger to dig 8 posts for our fence. We have clay soil in our area and I have to say there is no way it could have been done with just one person. The size of hole is determined by the size of the post. You want your hole to be at least 2x the size of the post. Ok, I am getting the feeling that the one-man option is out of the question. This is a bummer as my property is located in another state from where I am currently living and I do not know anyone up there to help me. My only option is work at the gym for 3 months and go from there. Does anyone know of any good back exercises I know I am going against everyone's advice, but if I had to buy a one-man auger what model should I buy. A hydralic model is out of the question as they cost $1500 minimal used. Has anyone ever used the Ardisam Earthquake? They seem the most reasonable. Boomer2 Well,this is a year late but I hopeyou didnt buy the earthquake auger.its cheap but you get what you pay for.Its gear driven and the gears dont last long. Just rent a one-man hydraulic or a dingo with an auger attachment? I was able to dig 45 holes in an 8 hour day with the Dingo and could have gone faster if I had more carefully marked the hole locations ahead of time.
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